I cut according to her hip measurement but graded out at the waist and cut a larger sized waistband.
The Jalie pull ons are incredibly easy to sew! The instructions are very clear plus there is also a sewalong video available on the web which makes them a total breeze. The waistband for example couldn’t be any simpler! You sew the elastic to the waistband, fold it over and sew it on (the stitching’s only visible from the inside). The pattern calls for one inch Waistband Elastic
. However, when I make my own pair I’ll definitely be opting for 1.5” to help keep things nice and flat in that area!
I like the way the seams are topstitched which gives them an authentic flat felled seam look without that bother! The front pockets are faux although Jalie have now added a little expansion pack so you can addd real front pockets too, which I’ll certainly be doing next time. If you wanted to make these even simpler, you could redraw your front trouser pieces to avoid having to sew on the fake pocket (the front yoke piece) and simply topstitch the shape on the front. However, I opted to sew them in.
Another thing I did to keep things simple is use Wonder Tape
whilst making the back patch pockets. This stuff is great, I used it here to keep my pressed seams in place whilst I topstitched them on. If you haven’t heard of it, it’s a double sided tape that washes clean away! I use it constantly holding things in place, like zips and pockets.
I think once you’ve nailed the fit of these, they could be sewn up in no time. My Little One tried them on at the basting stage; the plan was to narrow the leg to make them a slim fit Capri style but she was adamant she liked them the way they were. The fit was fairly good over her bottom and hips and since she’s the one who has to wear them, I let her win that battle (well, sort of, I did taper them in a little, removing an inch width in total, but don’t tell her that! They’re only just long enough like this though!) I strongly recommend that after you’ve sewn the two front pieces and two back pieces together, you then baste the rest and try them on so you can easily adjust the fit if needed. The leg pieces are pretty straight so in terms of determining length, if you think you may need to shorten them, this is also something you can determine at this stage, rather than shortening the pattern from the outset.
I’m considering these as a starting point; looking at the pictures I need to topstitch the waistband seam down and I’ll need to tweak the pattern further for her ‘proper’ denim pair but it’s been a great learning exercise and has helped clarify and demystify some of the trouser fitting process – especially when your bottom half varies so widely in terms of sizing!
That’s it! The pattern itself is incredibly simple and a really useful introduction to jeans making. Making them in Ponte means she’s as happy as anything in them! Now it’s my turn for a pair in proper stretch denim!
Thanks once again for sending me the great supplies Minerva!