Posted on Monday the 13th July 2020 by The Athenian Maker
Hi Minerva makers,
For this month’s post I received from Minerva gorgeous viscose twill in the ginger colorway. This fabric has a fantastic drape and I love the color.
After I received the fabric and realized how nice it drapes I decided to make a flared maxi dress with it and I chose pattern 115 from BurdaStyle Magazine 08/2017. The pattern features long sleeves, side zipper, and a characteristic high neck finished with a very long bow tie which is what made me choose this specific pattern.
The construction is very easy, especially since I didn’t make it with long sleeves which included a few more steps for the sleeve tabs, plus no interfacing is needed for any of the pattern pieces which is a step I really dislike doing.
I cutted all the pattern pieces as instructed in the magazine, apart from the tie which is supposed to be cut on bias but as I didn’t want to waste fabric and since this specific fabric has a lot of drape I decided to cut it on grain which worked out perfectly. I managed to make a mistake though already, I was supposed to cut the back piece of the bodice on fold since the zipper is placed on the side but as I’m used on always cutting the back with a central seam I didn’t place it on the fold, I had not added seam allowance on the center back so when I attached the two pieces together I used half centimeter seam allowance and to gain that 1 cm that I lost when I attached the side seams I sewed on 1cm seam allowance instead of 1.5 so in the end all went well.
This dress comes together quite fast, ok it’s not supper simple but it has a smart construction and finishing that make the process faster. Like, there is no center back seam, no facings to finish the neckline and as I mentioned above no interfacing needed, small things that make a difference.
To finish the sleeve hem, I cutted a piece of binding the width of the sleeve and 4 cm long, I applied it as a band and inserted elastic inside to create gathers.
Lastly, I wanted this dress to be long while the pattern has under the knee length. Instead of lengthening the skirt pattern I decided to add a ruffle to make it more playful and add the desired length in the same time. To do so I cutted two rectangles, 1 for front and 1 for the back measuring double the width of the hem, sewed the two pieces together in a circle and attached it to the hem of the dress after I had completed putting it together.
All in all I love the look of the dress, it is quite a conservative look but I really like it. The only thing that I’m not 100% sure I want to keep as is, is the length of the ties, I find them to be really long, I’m keeping them like this for now but later I might decide to shorten them.