Posted on Wednesday the 6th May 2020 by Sewing Adventures in the Attick
I hope you, your families and friends are all healthy. This month for my Minerva make I wanted to enlarge my ever growing collection of jumpsuits with this lovely Rachel Comey Jumpsuit from Vogue (V1645). After testing the moss crepe suiting fabric, I fell in love with this fabric and thought would be perfect for my jumpsuit.
It is not often that I copy the envelope fabric, but I feel that for this pattern a solid colour is better suited and I have way to many red and blue garments, therefore, I’ve gone for a grey crepe. To make sure that the jumpsuit will fit me as I wanted and that I understand how it is constructed I first made a muslin, after I cut a size 14 and shortened the bodice above the bust by 2 cm and a 1.5 cm sway back. The muslin made it clear for me that I need to shorten the trousers by 5 cm and raised the armscye by 2.5 cm as I want to have the option to wear the jumpsuit without a top underneath, and even with that raise, you can still see my bra.
I found the instructions a bit complicated and having made the muslin first, it helped me understand how the jumpsuit is constructed. Although I was tempted to do my own thing, I had to force myself to follow the construction order as instructed to avoid making mistakes.
When I work with a solid colour, I have to have some bit of contrast, even if it is on the inside, so using a couple to fat quarters I made myself some bias tape to cover all the exposed seams in the finished garment. It did take some time and planning, but it was well worth it.
And since I always have to do something different, rather than using a belt buckle for the belt, I replaced it with 2 D rings instead.
I love how elegant the outfit looks like in a solid and it’s more flattering than I would have thought. The high heels help elongate the legs so the garment is not making me look shorter than I am.
This is a project that I would not recommend to a beginner as making it all come together is not simple and one can easily make mistakes, even though the outfit looks like a simple one. I think that’s the mark of a good design (it looks simple while the elements are not that simple).
If you are making this jumpsuit, my advice to you is to bear with the order of construction, even if it feels counter intuitive. It will all make sense before you finish.
To tone it down, I used a camisole underneath and flats. But it’s still pretty awesome and it has pockets.
Pattern: Rachel Comey Vogue 1645 semi-fitted, jumpsuit (close-fitting through bust) has mock wrap detail, side slant pockets, squared-off armholes and half self-belt.
Sizing: Y (XS-S-M) Z(L-XL)
Fabric: 3m of Lady McElroy moss crepe suiting fabric
Notions: interfacing, 1 9”invisible zipper, self made bias tape to finish the raw edges on any exposes seams 2 D rings.
Modifications: I cut a size M and shortened the bodice by 2 cm all over above the bust, 1.5 cm sway back and taken 5cm off the length of the trouser. After making up the toile I added 5 cm to the armhole facing so that when I wear the jumpsuit my bra does not show. I used bias tape to finish the armhole edge, rather than the facing pieces as on the pattern.
Instructions: As I do not use them I cannot really comment much on this as I tend only to check the seam allowance and glance at the diagrams.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?: yes, although because I chose not to shorten the trouser more than 5 cm the jumpsuit is a little longer on me.
Watch out for: the instruction might feel like they are counter intuitive, but bear with them, in the end it will all make sense. Also, pay close attention when you cut the facings for the asymmetric neckline. I have a ‘design element’ in my jumpsuit.
Make Again?: definitely. One can never have too many jumpsuits.
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog post. And please do share your makes on Instagram/Twitter by tagging @Minervadotcom and/or using the hashtag #MinervaMakes. I’d love to see what you create.
Simona @ Sewing Adventures in the Attick