I AM Cassiopee Dress
Posted on Tuesday the 20th March 2018 by ym.sews
Hi Minerva readers!
I wonder if you are all in full Spring wardrobe planning mode as I am? The snow we've had in Wales over the past few weeks has actually spurred me on, I am very much looking forward to the weather warming up with a little less rain/snow-fall. With that in mind when I planned out my makes for 2018 I had a dress pattern in mind which would see me though all of our strange seasons. This dress is the I AM Cassiopee Dress Pattern
Now let's talk about this pattern for a second. I have never previously had much luck with a raglan sleeve pattern. Every time I sew one I immediately regret it and always end up with a weird sitting neckline, and weird pulling over most of the upper sleeves. But I broke me 'no raglan' rule for this pattern. Every time I have seen the Cassiopee pop up on my Instagram feed, or in my blog reader, I have been truly impressed by the fit on all figures. I love the loose floatiness of the dress, the gathered skirt, the boxy bodice, and the silhouette of the dress when laid out. It's just my idea of the perfect day to day dress.
With all this in mind I set about choosing a special fabric for my first Cassiopee. I knew it had to be a special one too, so I immediately started browsing the Atelier Brunette Fabric Range
. The number of times I have seen this Halo Fabric
pop up online sewn up into the most beautiful garments is impressive. Time and time again people seem to be using it, and I have read so many rave review. So I took the plunge and chose the gorgeous brown and black Halo viscose print. It's a gorgeous challis fabric that is 56" wide and, though described as light on the site is actually pretty opaque and didn't need lining at all! So not so light to be transparent, but a perfect dress fabric; floaty and opaque. A win win situation in my book.
Before pre-wash informed the fabric it felt a little stiff, but once out of the pre-wash it felt nice and soft and drapey. It was lovely to press, and stable enough to cut without it shifting around. I cut the whole dress out with my rotary cutter, and of course cut in seam pockets. The fabric is definitely stable enough to take the weight of in seam pockets in case you were wondering. It's an ever present consideration of mine 'what kind of pocket do I insert in this dress'. I sometimes find if the fabric I'm using is very lightweight in seam pockets are far too heavy and weigh the skirt portion of the dress down leading to the skirt hanging in a strange way. One way to prevent this would be to draft scooped out pockets for the garment, or alternatively cutting your inseam pockets so the tops of the pockets get caught in the waist seam. That was mot only are they anchored to the side seam but also to the waist seam, further adding stability.
With the construction I used French seams for the whole bodice and overlocked the waist seam. It was such a quick sew after cutting. The overall silhouette has to be one of my new favorites. Plus this fabric imi think is one of my favourites I've ever worked with, and the finished dress has all the qualities of a dream dress in my eyes; my colours, floaty, boxy, pockets, great length. Winning!
I might have already sewn up another 2 Cassiopee dresses, I wasn't lying when I said it was a quick sew!!
Until next time.