Italian Wool Peacoat
Posted on Wednesday the 25th January 2017 by Duncan Carter
This month sees my most intricate garment yet. British winters call for layers upon layers then on top of all that, a beautiful and cosy coat. I was so excited to work on this garment and it adds a colourful pop to my winter wardrobe!
Italian Wool Peacoat
This month it’s another Thread Theory Sewing Pattern - the “Goldstream” peacoat. There are two variations: I opted for the smarter looking classic version but there is also a hooded casual option for a more relaxed style. When it comes to fabric, I’m all for finding a bargain but once in a while it’s lovely to splash out on something a bit special. So I went for an Italian Wool Fabric as my outer fabric and matching Lining Fabric in a stand-out turquoise blue.
I knew this one would take a while so I gave myself plenty of time and spread it over several sessions. I started by interfacing the front pieces, which is given as an optional step in the instructions to increase structure and warmth. I’m glad I did as it really gives a crisp, tailored finish.
The classic version has a pair of darts down the front and two lined patch pockets. There is also an inside pocket, which is always a selling point for me! I moved this slightly forward during construction as it seemed a bit close to the underarm initially.
The sleeves didn’t need much easing at all so that was quicker and easier than I had expected. The only step that left me a bit unsure was attaching the collar. It’s hard to explain but the way the collar goes into the neck seam is more art than science! I had to pin and re-pin a few times until I thought it looked even and symmetrical, with lots of easing and squeezing and head-scratching. But I took a leap of faith and when I flipped it the right way out, it looked great!
It was my first time using shoulder pads - I really had no clue what the rule was for placing them but the pattern instructions were good, and I went back and forth to the mirror several times until I thought it looked right then just hand sewed them in place along the shoulder seam.
I didn’t want to cheapen the overall finish with basic buttons so went for these gorgeous Metal Buttons which hint at military but also have a sort of celtic flower feel to them which I like.
The epaulettes and sleeve tabs look very cool on the classic version. On a practical note, I needed just over 200m of thread for this project so if you’re doing all the construction, lining and button holes with the same thread, I’d get 3 x 100m reels to be safe.
The pattern instructions are for hand-sewn lining but I used the machine bagging method I’ve done before so only had to hand sew the wee corners at the facing and the slit in the arm where it was all turned through.
I feel really chuffed with this one… the colour is beautiful, it’s genuinely warm but doesn’t look bulky and the quality of the fabric has a lovely weight and feel to it. I think it’s going to get a lot of use if this coldness continues!
Next month: another classic piece but with much less fabric and a twist of tartan.
Until then, happy sewing!
PS. Sorry for the lack of smiles this month - it was very cold up on that rooftop!