Jabot on Dots and Stripes
Posted on Saturday the 20th June 2020 by Geo P
I’ll start by saying (in case you’re wondering :) ) this outfit has been planned in a different ‘age’, a ‘normal’ one where I was still going to an office. In this new age, the normal is that I work from home all day every day for the foreseeable future. This means I will have to go to Tesco’s wearing a white shirt and suiting trousers :D
My love for Burda is well documented, most of my projects here on Minerva are Burda patterns. This time I am using a magazine pattern and an envelope one.
The shirt uses a pattern from the February issue of Burda. I was very happy to find in the Minerva shop the exact fabric used in the magazine. Or very very similar, anyway. It’s a swiss dot cotton, I’ve also seen it called hail spot fabric, and it has a very crepey texture. It’s very light and soft, doesn’t iron completely flat, it’s almost like a gauze. A lot of words to say it’s lovely, I am planning to make some summery pjs in red or yellow.
I was going to make the full length version but decided it would be very impractical. The pattern is for taller (1.76) women. I am short and honestly sometimes I don’t know what the difference is with Burda. I think the waist is longer overall, but the armscye length for example is the same in all 3 size ranges - petite/standard/tall. I traced size 40 with narrows shoulders and did my usual petitting alterations and I am happy with the fit. I could’ve sloped the shoulders a bit, but the wrinkles weren;t that obvious when I did a baste fit.
The sleeves ARE longer for tall patterns and I had to shorten them by 5cm. The original cuffs were 10cm wide, a bit too wide for my liking, so I decided to shorten the cuff rather than the sleeve.
I was very happy to find a tutorial for the jabot on the Russian Burda website. I used the translate option in the browser and managed to get it right. For some reason the length of ribbons needed are not translated correctly so if you want to make one try to get the lengths from the Russian version.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the recommended ribbon is 2.5 cm wide but when you print their template at 100% scale, the width of the strips is only 2 cm wide.
I made mine as instructed but omitted the last ‘row’ to make it a bit shorter. I used the Berisfords double faced satin ribbon and it was perfect for this.
The fabric is a poly-viscose blend but it feels a lot like wool. I actually had to re-check the description on the website when the fabric arrived, I was worried I wouldn’t be able to machine wash it. Luckily it went through a wash just fine, came out just as soft (feels a little brushed) and it was very easy to work with.
I took my time cutting the pattern pieces in one layer, mirroring the stripes on the front and back, as the stripes are not symmetrical.
I admit the matching on the zip facing with the waistband was absolutely accidental and it even looks better than the rest of the band, which was planned! I have also messed up the matching on the back band but I noticed too late to fix it.
I had this floral bias binding in my stash and I thought it was a good pairing - delicate flowers against the more severe striped fabric.
The trousers are supposed to be short, but my initial version was ridiculous. I am not sure what happened, I compared the pattern to others I have used before and shortened it by quite a bit. The result was comical so I added 4 cm cuffs to add some length.
I love both the shirt and the trousers but I admit I don’t think they go very well together. The magazine styling with slim black trousers looks great. I tried the shirt on with some skinny black jeans (which are a bit too small now) and I like it better. I need some new slim trousers I’d say!