Jeans. Jeans. Jeans?
Posted on Sunday the 8th October 2017 by Sopbac Sews
Hi everyone. Sophie here, back to show you all the new jeans I made! I’m happy with them, but I have to be honest and say it was not a spotless journey. If you have followed my blog or any of my social media you might have noticed that I don’t wear much pants or trousers.
The reason for me not wearing them is because of my curves. I often have problems fitting my bottom into any form of form-fitting jeans, which I believe many other women also struggle with. I will explain my experience with this make in three sections; The pattern, the fit and the fabric.
First of is the pattern. I have been wanting to make the Safran Pants from Deer & Doe ever since they launched in August last year. I was so ambitious because I had just made my first ginger jeans from the Closet Case Files Pattern and felt like I can make any jeans I wanted in life. But the reality was that, yes, I was so incredibly happy with my jeans, but it was also a very hard process of crying and cursing. I believe I wasn’t as skilled as I hoped to be at that point, but everything was frustrating.
When I made my Ginger jeans in September last year the plans of the Safran was already in the works, but since I was so mentally challenged by the Ginger it has gone to the I-will-make-you-before-I-make-any-other-pants-pattern-I-promise-pile. So when I became a part of Minerva Crafts Blogger Network I figured, I’m ready and if I don’t have a deadline, it won’t be done.
I know I have alot of fitting issues and I knew from earlier what those was, but different patterns mean you have to start over again and find your fit. I started with a size 44 because it was the size that was closest to my hip measurements. I found out that I needed more room for my butt, I had whiskers in the front and the waist was way too big.
For all my fitting issues I went to Deer & Does homepage to see the fitting adjustment I needed for this particular pattern. I started grading from my size 44 in the hips to a size 40 at the waist. I than lengthen the crotch by 1 cm to get rid of the whiskers at the front, for my back I did a full butt adjustment, and added 5 cm to make room for my behind. Although the calfs wasn’t as tight on this pattern I chose to do a big calfs adjustment anyway and gave 1 cm room. I cut out the length of view B, because view A would have been too long for me.
For this project, I originally choose an another stretch denim fabric, but it was already sold out, so this one was a great alternative. The fabric I used was a plain blue Stretch Denim Fabric, the problem was that it wasn’t stretchy enough for what the pattern required. This fabric would have been perfect for a loosely fitted pair of boyfriend jeans, but not so much for the skinny jeans that tend to be more fitted and tight.
I should tell you that I’m still very new at the jeans game and don’t really know how much stretch is stretchy enough for jeans. After making the muslin and finding the fitting issues, correcting them, and cut out the main fabric - I sewed it up, tried it on after sewing the legs together and to my horror, my thighs were too big. What do I do know? Well, the only reason I could think of without abandoning the project was to have a smaller seam allowance. I ripped up the stitches and worked with a 5 mm seam allowance instead of the usual 15 mm on the side- and inseams. It worked!
There are some interesting details on the pattern. The slashed welted pockets, the belt loop and fly front. You can’t see any whiskers at the front now, can you? I decided to add a back yoke seam even though it’s nothing there, but I think it gives it a nice effect. As you can see I used a contrasting topstitch thread that I think makes the jeans look more jeans-like.
It wasn’t before after I made these jeans that I realized the pattern wasn’t a jeans pattern, it was just a pants pattern. So that might also be the reason why I had problems with the jeans fabric. My bad… Always read everything twice before you start making it!
That’s it from by for now! I’ll be coming back to dresses very soon, but next up is some layers. Kisses!