Kwik Sew Mens Shorts
Posted on Wednesday the 18th May 2016 by Sewchet
When Mr H-L asked me if I would make him some shorts recently, I jumped at the chance. I've never sewn any clothes for him before so was quite pleased at the request, especially as I knew they were going to be anything but boring, if his usual taste was anything to go by (Sky Blue linen wedding suit, anyone?).
This is what came in the parcel from Minerva Crafts. I chose an extra strong metal 'jeans' zip as Mr H-L tends to be quite brutal with his clothes.
We decided to go down the smart route with version 'B' from this Sewing Pattern for several reasons. Firstly, Mr H-L wanted all the bells and whistles that he'd expect to find on a good pair of shop bought shorts - back welt pockets, side pockets, fly zipper, belt loops etc. We omitted the pleated cargo pockets because, apart from being a more casual feature, they are an absolute PIG to iron after the first wash.
I almost wish I'd made them the other way around as it seems a shame to hide such great fabric inside pockets.
I chose jeans buttons which are hammered on as he tends to rip off ordinary buttons for a pastime. They were a bargain at just 19p each, too!
I'm not going to reel off all the instructions verbatim; suffice to say that the pattern is a good one on the whole and I'll just point out the details which make them a great pair of shorts.
First off, I love the paper that Kwik Sew Patterns use. You can see from the photo just how strong it is. They are on sale at the moment at Minerva too!
If anyone decides to buy this pattern, there is one error in the very first of the numbered steps. It tells you to pin and stitch the wrong side of the pocket facings to the wrong side of the front pockets like so:
If you've picked a fabric like this with a definite right and wrong side, then you need to stitch the facings to the right side of the front pockets.
Now, when you look inside the finished pockets, you see the right side of the lining fabric. I couldn't visualise it before, even though I suspected it was wrong, and ended up having to unpick and start again.
Two rows of top stitching finish of the pocket edges beautifully.
The zip goes in and I was chuffed to bits with how professional it looks, right down to the bartack at the bottom of the fly opening - perfect to strengthen this area which is at risk of coming apart at the seams the way he rips the zip up and down.
The inside of the fly looks just as good - very neat and, again, professional looking.
The first back welt pocket was completed exactly as per the instructions and it was only after there was no going back that I realised that the lining was inside out again. I made the second pocket reversing the lining against what the pattern said to do, and this time it was correct.
The one on the left is the correct one, with the pretty side of the fabric on show on the inside of the pocket.
In this instance the error isn't noticeable, because it is a welt design and you can't actually see the lining at all, especially so due to the button closures.
Which brings me on nicely to a picture of the finished welt pockets. Not too shabby, though I say so myself.
I really like the jeans buttons - I think they are the kind of feature that stops an item of clothing looking 'homemade', a description that puts most men off!
Although not very clear in this photo, I used flat fell seams on the outside legs for a stronger, neater finish. Much better than the plain seam finished with an overlocker on the inside that the instructions suggest.
This means, of course, that the inside of the seams look perfect, too!
Rather than a self faced waistband, I love the way the pattern uses a lined waistband. This was another excuse to use more of that fabulous camper van fabric.
Next up were the belt loops - essential for 'proper' trousers.
Nearly there - now for the button at the centre front. Mr H-L lent his expertise when hammering all the buttons on.
Finally, a matching buttonhole and more top stitching. Doesn't that look, well, professional?
So, what does Mr H-L think of his snazzy shorts?
His smile says it all, really.
They're a perfect fit straight out of the packet, no alterations necessary.
Neither too baggy nor too snug round the back.
As I mentioned, he's pretty hard on his clothes, so all those little strengthening details will be well worth the little extra effort.
There's a glimpse of the pocket lining!
Double rows of top stitching on the hems add a nice bit of design.
Belt loops - you must have belt loops.
All in all, and I have made many pairs of tailored trousers/shorts over the years, I think these are my favourite ever pair. The pattern has ALL the design details you could wish for and, I'll say it again, they look so professional. Apart from the fact that they're made so much better than shop bought shorts, you'd be hard pushed to know they were homemade.
Yes, a great pattern and fabulous fabrics - try buying a pair of shorts like this on the high street!
Thank you to Minerva Crafts for supplying the pattern and all the materials.