Linen Rose Pants
Posted on Wednesday the 18th September 2019 by Oak Blue Designs
Hello again! I’ve been looking forward to sharing this project with you. I’ve been wanting to make the Rose pants by Made by Rae. They are a fun pair of elastic waisted pants with pockets, multiple length options, and multiple front options. They are high waisted and I’ve enjoyed seeing how different the pattern looks with various fabric bases (including solids or prints).
For the fabric, I picked a dressy rayon/linen blended fabric. I’ve been missing a pair of dressy, handmade black pants in my wardrobe so I was looking forward to fixing this gap with this project. This fabric is a blend of 55% Rayon and 45% Linen. This base offers a drapey fabric that is slightly less prone to wrinkling vs a 100% linen base.
I used the following machines for this project. The standard machine for most of the sewing and the overlocker to finish the inside seams.
2.5m, Linen/Rayon Fabric, Black (reference size chart for fabric lengths needed)
1.2m, 19mm elastic, Black
0.2m, Lightweight woven interfacing, Black
90/14 Universal needle
Glass head sewing pins
I wanted to note that Made by Rae patterns include additional resources on their website. I thought I’d share links to some of the resources included, fabric inspiration, variations included on the pants front, and Rose Pants inspiration from fashion trends.
Size - XS Waist, graded to a Medium at the hips.
I thought it would be fun to try a muslin with this poly/cotton fabric in my stash. I loved this version that Rae made in a quilting cotton fabric. I enjoy wearing muslins/toiles into wearable garments (or in this case pajama pants).
This pattern (like this recent MBR pattern that I made) includes tips in the directions to quickly sew up the muslin. I followed the tips in the directions and layed the pocket piece under the Front pants pattern (to skip the pocket detail for the practice version).
Well, I don’t have modeled photos to share as I made a mistake with the muslin (that I thought would be helpful to write about). I graded across sizing for the waist/hips but I forgot that this pattern has an elastic waist and is not a zippered pair of pants. When I went to try on the pants, I couldn’t get them over my hips. I should have gone with the widest dimension (comparing waist and hips together) for the pants. I could then have adjusted the elastic to be tighter at the waist. Funny enough, this was not my first handmade pair of elastic waisted pants. Nevertheless, I admittedly cut out and sewed the muslin too quickly (and made this mistake). I wanted to share this as an encouragement to not make this mistake yourself if you sew up these pants as well.
Size - Medium.
I sewed a straight medium and referenced the elastic cutting chart included the directions (shown below). I found this elastic cutting guide SUPER HELPFUL and it saved me time through the usual process I’ve gone through with adjusting the elastic length on elastic waisted pants.
I also wanted to note that this pair of pants is that first that I’ve made with two rows of 19mm elastic recommended. I was intrigued to try this technique as I’ve typically worked with a 2”/50mm wide elastic for waistbands (sewing two rows of stitches through the waistband to prevent rolling). I liked this “new to me” elastic option and I’d enjoy trying it again.
Be aware to use a medium to low heat setting with this fabric base (to prevent shiny fabric from a hot iron/steam). Testing an iron with scraps of fabric are always helpful to try before sewing.
I used the serger to finish the inside seams but I followed the tips included in the directions to sew the crotch seam flat (after serging). A serger is not required for this project (multiple finishing methods are included in the directions for use with a standard sewing machine). I utilized a blind hem foot that came with my machine to top stitch this seam flat.
The following are the settings that I used for the spacing of using the blind hem foot to stitch this seam:
I like using this blind stitch foot for top stitching as it’s helped with consistent spacing in applications like this.
I selected the standard, four pleated front option and I thought I’d share a shortcut that I utilized for marking the pleats. Instead of using a fabric marking pen or Tailor’s tacks to mark the pleats, I used sewing pins. This saved me a great deal of time and was just as quick to reference the fold points (and also helped with the alignment of the pocket). The following are a few photos, for reference:
I have really been enjoying wearing these pants! The flat front is a flattering and really fun feature. I was a little unsure, at first, on selecting the pleated front version for myself. I was a teenager in the 90’s and have worn pleated front pants in the past. I want to confess that I’m really glad that I went with the pleats and I really like them!
I do need to share that linen/rayon blends can feel scratchy at first (and this fabric base has that factor, as well). From my previous experience, this challenge can be remedied by washing and drying the fabric multiple times. I did prewash and dry the fabric, but I have only washed and dried it once (before sewing). Linen and linen blends soften over time with wash and wear, which is so amazing. I’m very drawn to linens as a material that gets better and better over time.
I love the breathability of this fabric. Most commercial dress pants that I see are polyester based or are made from a thick cotton. I love the combination of a dressy pair of pants that are also very comfortable to wear (through multiple seasons with its breathability).
A fun aspect of building a handmade wardrobe (slowly, over time) is being able to piece each customized item to wear together. The shirt that I’m wearing in the photos is the Agnes tee that I made for this post. The sandals that I’m wearing are handmade as well, from Sseko.
I’d enjoy make this pattern again, trying a cropped length and gathered front. Let me know if you’ve made this pattern yet and which fabric you used!