Little Bit of Luxury
Posted on Saturday the 23rd June 2018 by Wanderstitch
Sometimes it's nice to have a little bit of luxury, right?
The gorgeous Silk Fabric
you see here is an ex-Armani print, so you KNOW it's gonna be good. Yes, it's a *smidge* pricier than what I'd normally pay at £38 per metre, but I really loved the print, and the quality is beautiful, so it was worth every penny.
I used it to make an Ogden Cami
, which I managed to squeeze out of just 75cm of this 150cm wide fabric so the cost of the make was only £30-ish in total - which doesn't sound anywhere near as bad!
I gambled with the yardage (as the pattern says 1.1 metres) but my backup plan was to cut the facings from a different fabric if I couldn't quite squeeze them on to the piece I had. Thankfully I managed to get everything out of my 75cm, including the facings, so I'll definitely bear this in mind for future makes of this pattern - it will be fab for using up leftovers!
With silk fabrics they can slip about on the cutting board, so I make sure to spray a little starch on the fabric before cutting to help stabilise it (always test on the edge of the fabric before you go coating the whole thing - just in case!) and then I line up the selvedge with a straight line on the grid of my cutting board and masking tape it in place. This at least helps keep one edge in place, and makes it easier to see if the fabric is shifting about before you cut it.
This approach was definitely helpful when cutting out the straps - with such small (and straight-edged) pieces it was important to get it as straight as possible. I put extra starch on the area I was cutting the straps from, which made sewing and turning the straps a bit easier as well. I made the straps a little bit wider than the pattern calls for, because bra straps.
I'll confess now that I HATE pressing hems. I can never get it straight, and it always looks a total shambles. 99% of the time I use bias tape, even though it's more time-consuming - mostly I use it because I find it easier, but it also gives a neater finish for me. I had some leftover home-made bias tape which coordinated perfectly with the colours in the silk - so, feeling pretty chuffed with myself for using up leftovers, I proceeded to sew the bias tape to the hem while feeling excited that I'd soon be able to wear my new top that I only started sewing that morning (yep, the Ogden is a very quick sew!).
Once the bias tape was added, I excitedly tried on the top - and was immediately disappointed. Even though the bias tape was quite lightweight, it was too heavy for the silk. I ended up with a wibbly fluted line for a hem, including a bit that stuck out hideously right at the front. I considered my options - cut off the bias tape and re-hem (the lazy option) or unpick the tape (the proper way, but a risk of damaging the beautiful silk). I was worried that if I simply cut it off and re-hemmed, the top would be too short - there's nothing I hate more than tops that are too short, or cut too low. Ain't nobody got time to spend all day worrying that they are showing a muffin top to the world. So, unpicking it was, and extremely careful unpicking at that because, well, £38 a metre fabric, that's why.
I'm pleased to report that the unpicking went without incident, and I then proceeded to double press a hem as originally directed by the instructions. Hey, you win some, you lose some. It still ended up a little bit flutey, but nowhere near as bad.
It's well worth spending the time to French seam the sides of the Ogden - chances are, you'll be making it from a lightweight fabric, which you probably won't want to run through the overlocker (mine gets a but gnarly sometimes), and the French seams will ensure that the garment survives wearing and washing and there will be no exposed edges to unravel.
I really love the Ogden - especially in this beautiful silk - but I think for the next one I will size up. I cut based on my bust measurement according to the pattern instructions, but it's a bit tight across the chest. It's a great pattern to use when you need a 'quick win' sewing-wise, as it only takes a couple of hours (if you don't have to spend an hour unpicking, like I did) and it's brilliant for stash busting and using up leftovers from previous makes. Win!
I'll be back next month on the Blogger Network with a sleeveless Deer and Doe Bruyere shirt - in summary, it's fab and I love it!