I am quite excited to be back on the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network with another project.
Based on the finished garment measurements, I decided to make a size 12 and use a seam allowance of 0.6 cm on the side seams. I did use my overlocker for most of the construction. The pattern includes petite lines for the skirt pieces. However, because I decided to only cut one set of for the bottom band and then fold it on itself, I used the regular lines to cut the skirt pieces, because I did not want the dress to end up being too short.
Also, I decided to change the order of construction for the bodice. I first sewed up the shoulder seams on both the main bodice and the lining. I then stitched together the neckline on the main fabric and the lining. Then, using the burrito method, I finished off the armhole sections.
To make sure the lining stays on the inside, I under-stitched it in place.
Since I am not too fond of gathering, especially, on stretch fabric, I ended up adding pleats in the skirt to make them fit with the bodice. I did 4 pleats on each side.
I then used the Burrito technique again to add the skirt to the bodice. However, you cannot see how pretty that was because I then realised that the elastic needs to go in as well. Ups! The elastic was added by stitching it in place on the bodice part through all layers.
From the right side, it does look nice though.
Before I added the elastic, I did stitch up the side seams, after doing the burrito technique on the skirt pieces, by using my overlocker.
Once I got to this stage, I added my bottom band. Which on my dress looks thiner than on the pattern, because I used only one side and folded in half. This means I did not have to do any topstitching and there’s not too much bulk in the hem but it still looks quite professional on the inside as well. However, I am tempted that if I am making this version of the dress again to make the bottom band a bit wider.
The dress fits nicely, it is quite a nice number. Also, it is quite comfy and easy to wear.
I was warned by my good friend Alex (Sewrendipity) that the armholes are a bit too big and your bra can be on show. However, by then, I already cut my bodice pieces. So, there was no surprise when I put it on that the armholes are too big. I’ll probably always wear this dress with a black bra, so it won’t be that obvious.
I have got to say, I do like the back detail. Usually, I cannot wear open back dresses, because I cannot get away with not wearing a bra, but this little number shows a bit of the back and you do no have to ditch the bra as well.
Pattern: view A of Maggie London B5456 dress - (Butterick collection)
Fabric: 0.6 m of block print jersey airforce, 0.7 m of plain black jersey, 1.5 m medium stretch lining –
Notions: 1m of 1 1/4 inch (3cm) wide elastic - colour black
Sewing time: approx 3h including tracing the pattern pieces
Modifications: chose a size by finished garment measurements – cut size 12 and used a seam allowance of 0.6 cm. Also only cut one set of the bottom back dress for view A and added as one would add a cuff to a sleeve.
Watch out for: the armholes are a bit too big and revealing. Next time I am making this dress I will raise the armholes by about 2-3 cm, so that my bra does not peek out. Also, the ease allowance is quite high, I made a size 12 (though my measurements put me in size 14) and found the dress a bit on the large side.
Make Again?: Yes. I am thinking of making the maxi version to use as a beach dress
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog post. And please do share your makes on Instagram/Twitter by tagging @MinervaCrafts or using the hashtag #MinervaMakes. I’d love to see what you create.