I couldn’t wait to get started with autumn sewing, I just love the colors and textures of the fabrics, and all the layering possibilities.
I definitely had autumn in mind when I selected my fabrics for the Minerva Crafts blogger network posts back in August (even though it was so hot at the time), I was immediately drawn to luxury fabrics and went straight to the wools and silks.
My first fabric selection was the most gorgeous plaid Pure Wool Fabric, it’s just beautiful. It is so soft and cozy and an absolute pleasure to work with.
I ordered 1.5m and decided on the Helen’s Closet York pinafore as I wanted a simple shape which really shows off the fabric.
I love how this pinafore turned out, but I will be honest and admit that I did make a mistake and had to do a bit of rectifying, let me explain what I did wrong and how I sorted it out.
Ok, so when cutting out the pattern pieces from the fabric, I was super careful to ensure that I was pattern matching the side seams, and that the pockets were identical, but I never thought about where the center point was on the dress and how I should position the pattern pieces on the fabric.
The result was that the pinafore looked off center, and to me it was really noticeable, so I racked my brains on how I could fix this.
I decided to make a faux button placket from a section of the fabric that I wanted to run down the centre, it’s not perfect as I still have some inconsistencies either side of the button placket, but it’s much, much better than it was before.
I then added some super cute ceramic rose buttons from Whim Wham buttons which also helps to take your eyes away from the error (or should I say design feature).
I thought that the wool needed a bit more stability and something that will stop it from sticking to tights when worn, so I interlined it using some lovely paisley lining fabric that I had in my stash. To interline I cut the pattern out in both the wool and lining fabric, I then hand based the 2 fabrics together (wrong side to wrong side) so that they ultimately became one piece of fabric which was wool on one side and lining on the other, I then continued to sew as normal.
I used a contrast bias binding to finish the neck and armholes, this gives it such a professional finish. The Helen’s Closet method of bias binding is by far the best I’ve experienced and I now love adding a bias bound edge, I think that the key difference is understitching the binding which gives such a neat fold.
You can view the inside of the dress in my video that you can view here, I have included 4 versions of the Helen’s Closet York dress but if you just want to view this version skip to about 8 minutes in.
So that’s it, I just love how this turned out and will wear it loads, and although I made the mistake with the plaid positioning, it was definitely a key learn and I won’t be making that mistake again, although it turned out to be quite a design feature.
Oh, I nearly forgot to mention, I was delighted to find that I had enough of the fabric left over to make a Tilly and the Buttons Arielle skirt (the mini version) so that is currently on my sewing table, how amazing is that, a dress and a skirt out of 1.5m of fabric.
Thanks for reading and I look forward to catching up again next month.
Mel xx