Navy Tweed Jacket
Posted on Tuesday the 27th November 2018 by Just Sew Helen
I chose this fabric to co-ordinate with my recently made Paisley Chambray Top. If you’ve seen that post you’ll know that I love to make dresses but don’t wear them often and tend to wear denim, be it blue, grey or black. This outfit is an attempt to move away from jeans, trainers & denim jackets and become a bit more lady like now I’ve turned 50!
The fabric is a medium weight, dark navy flecked tweed. I worried it may be a bit coarse to wear on bare arms making it itchy but was pleasantly surprised this was not the case.
Generally, I’m an impatient sewer, wanting to get on with a garment, but am moving more towards making a toile especially when using quality fabrics. I’ve tried many different media over the years and now tend to use cheap, light weight interfacing – being thin enough to trace the original pattern but also sturdy enough to pin/tack together for fitting. I made my usual adjustments of grading up a size over my hips, taking in the top 10 centimetres of the upper back seam where it usually gapes and lengthening the jacket slightly. I’m not familiar with Kwik Sew sizing but the shoulders were true to size and required no changes.
My usual source for iron-on interfacing is a well-known auction site. However, Minerva stock this medium weight Hemline Interfacing which I ordered with the fabric. I’m pleasantly surprised with the quality and how easy it is to add pattern markings & cut. I think it may have needed a slightly longer iron to adhere to the fabric, although this may have been because it was a coarser material. Either way, the finish has enhanced the collar and front of the jacket and I would definitely use this interfacing again.
The jacket is unlined and I usually neaten seams by adding a small hem or edge with a zig zag stitch. However, both may be difficult to give a good finish due to the weight of the fabric and its tendency to fray. Instead, I opted to bind the seams and, following some online research, chose to use a Hong Kong seam finish using a floral bias binding. There are some beautiful bindings and these add a lovely finish to the inside of a garment.
When I make a garment I sew the seams first, do a final fitting and adjust if required before neatening the seam edges. The tutorial I used for the Hong Kong seam finish suggested finishing the edges prior to sewing the seams. Doing it this way makes it really important to ensure the fit is correct as it would be difficult to adjust after binding the seams. Extra planning and time are needed to bind the seams as not all of the seams need to be finished, nor with the same method. For example, the armsyce works better with a bound seam finish rather than a Hong Kong seam finish. It took a few hours to bind all of the seams and my technique improved as I worked through them.
Once the edges were bound the jacket actually came together really quickly and it was nice to not have to start neatening seams after constructing the jacket. The lower hem and sleeve hems were finished with the same binding technique and hand stitched in place. Machine stitching would have spoilt the overall finish on this occasion.
I had chosen some Decorative Buttons and practised stitching the buttons holes on some scrap fabric before stitching on the jacket front. I’m always afraid of damaging a garment when pressing, especially if it is a wool based fabric, and a baby muslin cloth is perfect to protect the finished garment whilst ironing. After a final press the jacket was finished.
I’m really pleased with the jacket, inside and out, and for that extra special finish on something like a coat or jacket I wholly recommend taking the time to bind the seams.
Thank you to Minerva for more lovely fabric and notions and to everyone for reading my post.