After recently making a dress using some gorgeous Ponte fabric, I was looking forward to making something else in this versatile fabric.  I chose New Look pattern 6428 and a lovely medium weight Ponte in black with a large grey check pattern.

I find dress patterns are often a bit shorter than I like to wear and usually lengthen them to just below my knee.  I also struggle to find the right shoes to wear with dresses that I feel comfortable in and that look suitable.  Therefore, I planned to make a tunic with this pattern and shortened the pattern to my chosen length.  I opted for version B to wear as a pinafore with leggings and a long-sleeved T shirt underneath and also added the welt pocket feature from version A.

I prewashed the fabric, something I have only recently started to do, and dried it flat on an airer.  The material is beautifully soft and is fairly easy to use, being easy to lay out flat for the pattern and for cutting.  It doesn’t curl at the edges, nor fray, and only has minimal stretching when it is stitched, which can be ironed out with steam if required.

For the welt pockets I cut the fabric on the diagonal of the check pattern to avoid having to match the pattern, which would need to be perfect being on the front of the dress.

Top stitching the welt is difficult to begin stitching, due to the thickness of the seam against the single later of the bodice. A useful tip is to place a piece of fabric, the same thickness, at the back of the foot and flush with the welt.  This levels off the foot to enable stitching to start on an equally thick area.

After reading some reviews I decided to leave out the zip and also to replace the facings with jersey bias binding around the neck and armholes.  When binding stretch fabric, it is important to use a jersey or stretch binding to enable it to stretch with the fabric.  A darker colour would have been more beneficial, but it wasn’t available on this occasion.

Due to the fairly big pattern it is important to match the pattern exactly, as any mis alignment would be really obvious.  It’s difficult to match the pattern at the darts and then keep the rest of the pattern in line however, as long as the side & centres of the dress are matched, the eye is drawn to this and it can’t be avoided along the darts.

I really like the mock welt pocket flaps and also the two front neck darts which add some subtle, but stylish shaping.  This is a lovely pattern and I’d like to make another as a dress in a lighter fabric that I can wear in the summer, and then I usually wear dresses with pumps.

Thanks to Minerva for the pattern and materials and to everyone for reading.