Posted on Monday the 29th May 2017 by Male Devon Sewing
The cardigan, a staple piece of clothing that everyone has. In honesty I can’t remember the last time I wore one. I think it was about 35 years ago as a teenager. I love jumpers and baggy tops but don’t own a cardigan. Well the time had come for me to make one using the Thread Theory Design ‘Newcastle’ Sewing Pattern.
A modern style, slim fit cardigan with over-length sleeves, shawl collar and optional yoke detailing seemed to be just what I was after. The fabric chosen was a lightweight black/grey Knit Fabric and opted for some Leather Style Buttons.
After looking at the pattern I decided to cut 1 size up from my normal sizing, as I didn’t want it to be too close fitting. I opted for the wider shawl collar and that’s when things got a little more complicated……
If you follow my sewing via social media you will know I always like to make things a little different. More often that involves making things more complicated and this make would be no different.
Having cut the main fabric pieces out ready, I decided that I liked the look of the optional yoke detailing across the shoulders. I was lucky to have some real leather scraps in my fabric stash that would look great on the front yoke.
The yoke detailing is just that. It is sewn on top of the body fabric (front and back) rather than forming part of the garment. So armed with some leather I topstitched it to the fronts. I didn’t fold the front yoke seam allowance under as I was using real leather and I liked the raw edge look. As for sewing I used black topstitch thread and a 90/14-leather needle in the machine.
Using leather for the back was not an option, as it would restrict movement across the shoulders so I went for a self-fabric yoke. Of course me-being-me I cut split the back yoke and cut both sides on the bias for a nice chevron look. This yoke needed careful basting in place as I had now made a stretchy fabric even more stretchy! Sewing slow with a walking foot soon sorted it out though.
The rest of the garment went together really easily with the shawl collar being sandwiched between the facing and pressed into place. Putting the sleeves on though, did slow things down. The sleeves are sewn to the cardigan and the side seams/sleeve seams sewn in one step. My lovely leather yoke had no stretch to ease the sleeve fullness in. I had to carefully gather the sleeve across the shoulder to fit. Hand basting was not an option so it was done by machine using a leather needle before sewing up completely. The leather was also graded right back to the seam to let the sleeve fall properly.
The sleeves are finished with a simple cuff and the bottom hem was stitched with a twin needle.
Finally I was on to the buttons: Well I had done so much already I wasn’t going to skimp on the buttonholes. The choice was either hand sewn buttonholes (I don’t really like machine finished ones on knits) or bound and of course I opted for bound ones! Actually they went well as the button placket was interfaced (Stretch Interfacing) as was the facing.
All in all a really nice garment to make and one I took a little more time over to get the little details right. The pattern itself is very good with clear instructions. Do check the length overall as it is quite a short design but apart from that it is great. Now I’m ready for chilly spring evenings in the garden thinking about my next make.
Until next time….Happy Sewing