This is the third piece which completes my three piece outfit entirely in black.
I wanted to explore textures and contrasts using just the Fabric
without introducing colour, and this was the challenge I set myself. How could I produce three garments in one colour using different textures and pull it all together?
My first post
was a heavily pin-tucked blouse in cotton lawn with beautiful buttons and a lace edging so that it can be worn tucked in or left out. It ties at the neck with lace. In contrast my skirt
is in a black pinstriped suiting fabric which could look rather severe were it not for the dipped fishtail hem. It fits closely through the hips and swings out below the knee. For interest I added a 22” brass exposed zip and lacing.
This final garment is a jacket made from a beautifully soft baby cord trimmed with lashings of lace, beautiful buttons and lacing up the back.
This jacket nearly did not happen because due to a fault with the original pattern, I had to admit defeat and start all over again. I was annoyed because I had already put a lot of work into the jacket and I hated having to discard a lot of hard work.
I knew the effect I wanted though and chose this BURDA pattern which although not the same as my original pattern had some elements which I knew I could adapt.
Have you noticed that these days we have to hunt for the measurements of the garment we want to make? At one time they were all printed on the back of the pattern envelope.I found my size guide on the tissue which the pattern was printed on.
It is important that you check your measurements against the pattern before cutting out as commercial pattern sizing is different from ready to wear clothing.
Have you noticed that on fabrics such as velvet and corduroy feel different when you run your hand down the fabric and then the opposite way? This is called the nap and you must make sure that you place all of your pattern pieces with the nap running in the same direction. If you don’t do this then the light will reflect differently on the pieces which are cut out upside down and it will look very obvious.
The next step is to transfer all the pattern markings and balance marks onto the fabric. I am fond of tailors tacks. In order to preserve my pattern I put a sticky circle wherever I want to do a tailors tack to prevent my fabric from tearing . It really works. Once you have marked your darts then get them sewn and pressed.
Then join the shoulder and side seams
I wanted the jacket to be lined so I cut out the fronts, back and sleeve in lining fabric and used the interfacing pattern pieces to cut out a woven interfacing which I pressed onto the fronts and back for stability.
At this stage you can stitch the sleeve seams in the sleeve lining and the centre sleeve in the sleeve and stitch the darts and shoulder and side seams in the lining.
My original pattern was laced up the back and I wanted to keep this feature. Measure where you want the D rings to be placed.
Then cut out eight pieces of fabric twice the width of your D ring plus seam allowances. Stitch down the long side, turn right side out and press. Attach them to the back of the jacket first of all facing outwards. Press and trim the seam, flip them over so the the D ring faces inwards and top stitch.
Then it is time to start using your imagination and adding all these beautiful laces. Starting with the sleeves turn up the hem and attach a lace frill to the lower edge I also added a further row of lace above this . as my fabric is liable to move around whilst sewing I used a walking foot. To be honest this is almost permanently in my machine as I find it useful for so many projects (from jaycotts). Once you are happy with the sleeves sew the remaining seam and press using a sleeve board.
I added lace to the lower edge of the jacket, gathering it first.
Putting the lace out of the way and making sure it is facing inwards place the garment shell and the lining right sides together and stitch right the way around - along the bottom, up the side, around the neck and back again. Trim the corners clip the curves and trim the seams. Press.
Stitch on the lower jacket if you are sewing view B adding lace to the bottom edge before you sew the lining in place as before .Add more lace around the jacket as desired. I took a different lace and stitched it to the fronts, gathering it to fit around the back neck.
Put the sleeves in next inserting shoulder pads if you want them and slip stitch the sleeve lining in place
I used a satin ribbon to add further contrast of textures and laced it through the D rings tying it in a bow at the lower back.
To finish my jacket I used a large popper at the centre front to close the garment with. And then I added three buttons up the centre back seam of each sleeve and three larger buttons at the centre front placed asymmetrically.
My finished jacket is not too different from my original pattern because I knew exactly how I wanted to embellish it. I wanted it to be very opulent using lots of lace and antique style buttons. The contrast between the lace and the super-soft baby cord and the severe pinstripe of the skirt is exactly the look I wanted.
I do hope that you will read my previous two posts and put yourself an outfit like mine together. Yes it was a challenge, and it took three months to make it all, but am I pleased? You bet I am! This is a wonderful edgy outfit that can take you anywhere and I am thoroughly delighted with it.
I wish that you could see it for real! It is so hard to show you how all the wonderful fabrics work so well together in a photograph.
Please do let me have your comments and feel free to copy my ideas if you would like to.
With very best wishes to Minerva for all this fabulous fabric and lace.