Pika Sports Bra & Tunic by Jalie Patterns
Posted on Tuesday the 25th August 2020 by Just Sew Helen
There are some beautiful scuba fabrics on the Minerva site, and I fell in love with this bold floral scuba fabric - it’ll be the main fabric for my Sports Bra coordinated with plain black scuba for the straps. The blouson overlay is a lightweight jersey (tee shirt weight).
The rest of the kit comprised 6mm elastic for the neck and armholes and 2cm elastic for the band. I also used some black power net to provide extra support.
I sized up to allow for the thickness of scuba being used for the main fabric & the lining fabric with a layer of power net in between. I’m determined to make sure there’s good support for using my skipping rope to shift some lockdown pounds!
The blouson is made first before attaching to the front of the bra. I lengthened the blouson pattern by about 3 cm and left off the bottom band. I prefer loose garments and not with a band or tie at the bottom due to the shape of my hips.
I found the size and fabric requirements quite complicated on the pattern and although it is translated into English it is a busy page. There are European sizes cross referenced to Jalie sizes.
I made a toile out of an old tee shirt & then re cut the pattern 2 sizes larger, which only equates to about 1.5 cm, but I felt the toile wasn’t quite high enough at the side & centre front. I also added 2.5 cm to the length.
The power net has two way stretch, one way slightly more than the other. I wasn’t sure which was the correct way so decided on less stretch vertically to give more support. I stitched the power net to the lining bra at the side seams to keep it in place as it is quite a moveable fabric against the heavier scuba. I used zig zag 1.5 width & 2.0 length for all of the main seams on my standard machine.
The elastic for the armholes and neckline is cleverly stitched to the seam allowance on the lining side so is completely invisible from the right side of the garment.
I suggest double checking before stitching the front armholes and neckline to the lining as it is easy to end up with the blouson through the wrong part. If you turn the bra as if it is without the blouson and then leave this hanging down there shouldn’t be a problem. Similarly, the instructions at picture 22 regarding stitching the inside seam allowances weren’t very clear and I nearly stitched the wrong part - it’s actually the inside seams of the front strap & lining strap joined together to keep the lining down.
The instructions are complete, albeit sometimes a bit vague, and they also assume you have prior sewing knowledge such as clipping seams or corners, which are not mentioned.
Overall, I’m really pleased with the finished bra and blouson and find it extremely comfortable and practical. It is ideal for a number of activates and I can see it getting lots of wear.
The bra has great support, even when I’m skipping, and works mainly by strapping them down with a reducing effect as a result of the double layer of scuba. I love the blouson that hides some of the unwanted lockdown lumps and bumps and being fitted at the bust but skimming my hips is fairly flattering.
I’ve tried to show a picture of just the bra with the blouson rolled up, and because the blouson is attached part way through I couldn’t get any photos of the bra alone.
The main problem I found, and through no fault of the pattern, is to get adequate support the bra has to be quite close fitting which makes getting it off a bit tricky. Luckily, my husband was around to pull me out and it’s a small price to pay to keep things in place.
I‘ve already made a second bra out of some floral viscose jersey I had left from another garment and it only took a couple of hours now I know the process. Once I’d completed my second bra I decided to add a blouson because I love the fabric and wanted to show it off. Luckily, I’d got an old maxi skirt in navy jersey that I don’t wear and used this to add a blouson. Obviously, it wasn’t attached within the seams like the original bra but it was easy enough to sew along the seam line at the front and back. I now plan to make one or two in plain white scuba for wearing around the house.
Thank you for reading and to Minerva for the kit.