Play with Rico!
Posted on Tuesday the 31st December 2019 by The Athenian Maker
Hi Minerva makers, for this month's post I made an all season garment, a beautiful pullover top that is brightening these wintering days but that it will perfectly fit in my spring/ autumn wardrobe.
Let's start with the fabric, this Rico cotton canvas caught my eye while browsing the fabric section here on Minerva, I love the bright yellow uneven stripes and I imagined a beautiful short jacket with it.
When i received the fabric I liked the drape that it had, I expected cotton canvas to be stiffer but this one is quite soft, the colour is as pretty as I expected and I was looking forward to turn this fabric into a garment, it was just perfect for the jacket I wanted to make.
That being said, I know I'm no good with making plans and this time was no exception, just when I was about to start making the jacket the Play Pullover Top, the first commercial Secondopiano pattern got released. I loved the design so much that I instantly bought it and my stripped cotton canvas found a new destiny!
Sasha, the designer behind Secondopiano, has already released two free patterns in the past, Galleria Culottes and Basic Instict T-shirt, having made both patterns I was already familiar with her top notch pattern drafting skills and her attention to details so I was eager to make this one as well.
Play, is a design inspired from the 80's, a smart design featuring front neckline pleats and shoulder closures.
The pattern is designed for linen, twills, wools or as mentioned in the pattern, for fabrics that mold well and that is important for the back neckline to sit nicely. My fabric obviously does not belong in these fabric recommendations but Sasha, uploaded a video on Instagram on how to determine if a fabric is suitable for the pattern in case we don’t have the kind of fabric she recommends in the instructions. I watched the video and tested my fabric, it actually behaved quite well and although it didn’t pass the test 100% I was satisfied with how it looked so I proceeded in cutting the fabric.
I chose to make size 44, my measurements are Bust 102, Waist 88, High Hip 108 and I could in theory make 42 as well taking into account the finished garment measurements but as I'm big in the shoulders and arms I thought that 44 was a better option.
I wouldn't make a muslin anyway, im naughty like that, but I think that this pattern is easy to make basic fitting adjustments just by basting, the extremely detailed final measurements help also a lot.
The changes I did was a 3 cm sway back adjustment, that's a standard for me, after seeing the pictures though I think I could have gone up to 5cm and also increased the back neckline by 1 cm.
I had no problem sewing this top apart from making the buttonholes., I couldn't get my machine to sew the buttonholes by no means, I have made buttonholes on jeans in the past but probably the canvas is thicker than Jean's, although it doesn't feel so thick. After two failing attempts I gave up and decided to use some golden snaps instead.
All in all I love my new top, the fabric/pattern combination is fantastic, and I have no regrets for not making the jacket after all!