Hello everyone!

As I was planing my MCBN (Minerva Crafts Blogger Network) project for December I thought of picking a project that would fit into my yearly tradition to make garment each year with Christmas themed fabric. This year I wanted something more subtle. I settled on making a top using red fabric. The Sirius Top from I AM Patterns intrigued me because it’s very simple from the front and then there is a surprise at the back. I chose to use this red Broadcloth Fabric and red Organza Fabric for my version.

Before I started working on this project, the only thing I was worried about was working with organza, which by the way is very slippery. The instructions do not advise hemming the bottom of the organza piece first. I think it’s better to do so before working with it once it’s cut.

I tried to mark the pleats on the organza but with no luck. Clipping into such a light fabric is not advisable, it will just disintegrate. I just had to take my time and use my heat resistant ruler. This part was the most laborious of the whole process. I only followed the instructions for adding the pleats into the centre back. But, it’s actually easier to do once you understand how the finished piece needs to look like.

To get a cleaner finish around the centre back, I planned ahead and measured my hem and finished the bottom edge, before I overlocked the seams the organza piece was inserted.

At this stage I found that my organza piece was not flush with the hem of my top. However, I like that the pleats are a little shorter. If you want yours to be flush with the rest of the hem, it might be a good idea to cut your organza piece longer than suggested, mark the finished length on your centre back and pin your organza from that point. Any excess can be removed from the other end.

The rest of the construction went without a problem. The only thing I had to stop to think about was the hem, only because recently I discovered that I like using the decorative stitches on my machine. And fitting of a Christmas make was a stitch that looks a little like a star.

I love that my new top looks simple at a first glance. It’s a basic top that it’s perfect for every day wear.

But then, you turn around or get close and start seeing the little details it has,, such as the shear pleated back or the fancy hem. In my mind these details makes ever more special to me.

I like this pattern because although it is simple, it still challenged me to work with a fabric I did not work with before and to learn new techniques. They say ‘the devil is in the details’. Well with this pattern this is so true. But in a good way, especially if you are looking for something that is a little different.

Sewing Summary:

Pattern: Sirius by I AM patterns

Fabric: 1.5mt broadcloth and 0.5 m of organza

Notions: 1 button (I used 2)

Sewing time: in total approx 3.5h (including tracing the pattern)

Modifications: I made a straight size 40. shortened the bodice by 1.2 cm which in hindsight might have been too much.

Fit: good. Feel that the bust darts are now too high, though the shoulder to apex measurement is correct on the modified pattern. The sleeves look longer on be because I did not shorten them more than 1.2 cm.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?: yes

Watch out for: take your time to understand how the back pleats get inserted into the back bodice. If using organza for the back pleats, as the fabric is sliding a lot you need to take your time to work with the fabric and set the pleats in. I suggest you hem your piece before you start working on this piece (this step is missed in the instructions).

Make Again?: Yes. I am considering of making a version short sleeve, even one without sleeves.

Happy Winter Holidays to you all!

Thank you for taking the time to read my blog post. And please do share your makes on Instagram/Twitter by tagging @MinervaCrafts and/or using the hashtag #MinervaMakes. I’d love to see what you create.


Sewing Adventures in the Attick