Satin Charmeuse Lupin Jacket
Posted on Monday the 22nd October 2018 by Milly Noel
I have had this black linen and satin charmeuse fabric in my stash for about three years. I’ve always intended it for a blazer or jacket, but it was one of those things that kept getting pushed lower on the “to-sew” list. However! With the temperatures FINALLY dropping, now is the perfect time to whip up a jacket!
I settled on attempting the Deer and Doe (I told you I have an obsession!!) Lupin Jacket Pattern since it was halfway between casual and formal. I sewed a size 42 with no adjustment and left off the shoulder tabs. I managed to sew it in about 6 hours! Not counting tracing off the pattern, cutting out the fabric, and then procrastinating on starting it for a week or so because I was scared of the welt pockets. . .
I was most intimidated by the welt pockets and was terribly worried I was going to completely mess them up. Actually they weren’t that bad. Yes, they were fiddly and took time, but with a little patience and paying attention to detail I managed quite well.
Due to using a black fabric, figuring out how to transfer the pocket markings took a bit of thinking. I ended up using tailor’s tacks and thread tracing which worked perfectly! I’ve included a few pictures below to show you what I did. I also used the tutorial on the Deer and Doe blog in addition to the pattern instructions since there were more pictures. Between the two I didn’t have any problems.
I misread the pattern piece for the pocket and thought it said to cut 4 in both the lining and main fabric, which I did. Rather than waste the extra pieces, I underlined each of the lining pockets pieces with the linen pocket pieces. Making them a double layer of fabric which resulted in sturdier pockets. Happy accident!
This only works because both the lining and the linen are lighter weight fabrics. If I was using denim or heavy suiting fabric, underlining the pockets like this would create far too much bulk.
Despite the pockets turning out so nicely, I could have easily omitted them. Because of the length of the jacket, the pockets are too high up for me to comfortably put my hands into them. They’ll work to stick my phones or keys but I’ll probably leave them off in my next version.
I would like to add a closure at the waistband so that I have the option to wear it closed or open. I think I will use a large sew-on snap in the inside for holding it closed, and sew a decorative button on the outside to hide the stitching. I think that would work really well and look quite nice.
I am super pleased with how my Lupin jacket turned out. The cropped length works perfectly with my full skirted, 1950’s style dresses especially when I wear a petticoat. It classes up my outfit without making it too formal. It is the perfect transitional layer for this time of year. I expect to get loads of wear out of it and I’m hoping to use some more stash fabric to make a navy variation.