Self-Drafted Lined Hoodie
Posted on Sunday the 7th June 2020 by Duncan Carter
At over ten years old, my favourite hoodie has long needed replacing—the zip gave up years ago and the cuffs were so threadbare they were literally see through! So when I saw this funky print
I knew it was time to sew myself an upgrade.
Having used Art Gallery fabrics before I knew it would be beautiful quality but a bit too fine for a hoodie, so I chose a complementary grey marl jersey
to use as a lining. Basically I sewed the exact same pattern twice, then bagged the whole thing out through the sleeves. This gave a fantastic result - smooth and soft to the touch on the outside but still weighty enough to hold its own as a hoodie.
I went for a chunky plastic black zip to echo the graphic strokes in the print. I did have a few hairy moments sewing close to the zip with the overlocker, but with the exception of a couple inches where I got a smidge too close (I almost managed a seam-ripper free make, not quite!) it all went smoothly. By the way, if you’re thinking of self-drafting, or copying ready-to-wear, then some dot and cross tracing paper is a must to get accurate and alterable pattern pieces.
I was in two minds with the ribbed cuff and nearly went with a plain hemmed sleeve instead, but I’m glad I went with the cuff—it makes for a bolder garment and again ties together the straight black lines of the print and zip.
I had one issue, which is pretty much a rookie error! I ordered too short a zip, so had to bring the hemline up to meet the zip—it’s not too short, but it’s definitely shorter than the old hoodie. Maybe a quick press along the underside of the zip tape will straighten it out for a little bit more length.
Inserting the lining was really straight forward because the cuffs are sewn on the top at the end with the overlocker and simply turned to hide the seam, so there was no hand-stitching necessary. I don’t know why I never thought of this before with lined bomber jackets, instead I’ve always bagged out through the side seam and hand sewn to finish. From now on, any lined garments with ribbing will be getting the overlocker treatment for a quicker and neater finish.
I honestly had no idea how this one would go—inserting zips into jersey is always a delicate procedure that can quickly turn to nightmare, and the idea of lining with jersey seemed very unusual, but in the end it’s added that luxe finish to an otherwise casual garment and the lined hood gives a very clean result, with no visible seams.
I considered this might be an unseasonable project, but with the so-called “summer" weather so far it turned out to be just the right garment for these cooler than expected days. Next month I’ll be tackling the denim for a revisit to the bleach-blue 90s jeans...
Until then, stay safe and happy sewing!