Sequinned Burda 7184 Waterfall Jacket
Posted on Wednesday the 18th January 2017 by Sewchet
Do you remember the stag's head Coco dress I made a couple of months ago?
Well, I've worn it to death - it really was worth splashing out the £40 it cost to get such Good Quality Fabric. Trouble is, with such a striking print, now I needed something to go with it other than the obvious black leggings.
Teal is another favourite colour of mine, especially in the Winter when I still want to wear something colourful but more appropriate for the season, and it would go well with the mustardy-yellow of the dress.
After a bit of head-scratching, I decided on a waterfall jacket - Burda Sewing Pattern 7184.
Then I thought, why not make it out of Sequinned Jersey Fabric?! (As you do!)
This fabric is also available in a lovely chocolate brown and both colourways have a slight crinkle quality to them which, combined with the sequins, really makes for an interesting fabric.
I chose view B, which is the longer length, but omitted the in-seam pockets. It has raglan sleeves which I always prefer as they give a softer, less sculpted look on the shoulders.
So, onto the cutting out......
It's a 56" wide crinkle-with-sequins jersey - of course it was going to be a challenge!
Just look at that wavy edge I had to contend with!
As it turned out, once smoothed flat the main body of the fabric behaved surprisingly well, so I just made sure not to place any of the pattern pieces close to the selvedges.
I couldn't iron it, obviously, otherwise I would lose the crinkle effect which is so nice.
Anyway - onto the construction.
I made the usual reduction in sleeve length - I love to see this option on a pattern.
Setting the iron onto a medium heat is essential when working with plastic sequins as too high a heat will melt them.
I also used a tea towel (clean, of course!) as a barrier between the iron and the fabric, just to be doubly sure.
Luckily, I wanted this to be a smart casual jacket as I soon discovered that it was going to be impossible to get an absolutely straight hem.
The sequins are staggered in vertical rows so, if a sequin happens to fall on the fold, you have to fold it a bit lower or higher as sequins don't bend. The slightly wavy hemline doesn't show at all though, down to the crinkle nature of the jersey.
I used a Twin Needle to secure the hems in place with a double row of topstitching.
I only had one twin needle so was praying all the way through that I wouldn't snap one of them when going through the odd sequin!
I didn't though, and both the jacket hem and the sleeve hems were beautifully finished.
Another issue when using sequins is that you can't use an overlocker at all, as the sequins would damage the blade. I usually use my overlocker exclusively when sewing jersey, so this felt a little odd at first.
The raw edges on jersey don't strictly need finishing as they won't fray; I just like to overlock the edges for neatness. In this instance, I just left them.
On the reverse of the hems, I trimmed the seam close to the twin-needle stitches for a neat finish.
For the front opening edges, the "waterfall" bit, I did a rolled hem. Years of experience meant I could just roll as I went, using just my fingers.
There - perfect!
So, the finished jacket.
Sequinned jersey was always going to be a risky choice for daywear, but I quite like doing something a bit different to what's expected.
The fact that it's crinkle jersey dresses it down a bit.
Obviously, as the jacket is unlined, the reverse of the fabric will be on show down the front opening edge. A neat rolled hem is imperative!
I must admit, I love the raglan sleeves - a defined sleeve head on the edge of the shoulder just wouldn't look right, I don't think, although raglan shoulder pads could add a little extra shape if you prefer.
Just look at those sequins sparkle!
I bound the neckline in a piece cut from the selvedge where there were no sequins. This ensured there would be no scratchy bits to irritate the back of my neck.
A VERY quick photo shoot as it was pouring down with rain.
See, the wavy hem isn't at all noticeable.
To recap; the pattern was a doddle - no issues whatsoever.
The fabric - well, it depends what you expect and what you're used to. The jersey is a lovely quality and the sequins just take it up a notch.
Knit fabrics have a reputation for being tricky to work with and, when you throw sequins into the mix, it's always going to be more of a challenge!
If you take the precautions that I did, then you won't have a problem - I found it straight forward enough, but a beginner may struggle with such a challenging fabric. A great pattern to make in plain jersey, though, as an introduction to using knits.
Just in case you were wondering, I made the leggings, too. I couldn't find any teal ones in the shops, so Vicki at Minerva Crafts very kindly found a matching Plain Jersey Fabric for me together with New Look Sewing Pattern 6439, both of which are also from Minerva Crafts.
Ooh, I nearly forgot - I found the perfect teal boots as well! Overkill, perhaps? They should be here any day so I'll soon find out:)