I made this Blouse from this Sewing Pattern last month for the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network and I am absolutely delighted with it. These trousers I have made this month are made to wear with it and the Fabric coordinates beautifully.

The entire pattern is very easy to follow and fits well, with wider trouser legs being fashionable right now, this 1940s style is bang up to date!

When making trousers, fit is essential. The easiest way to do it is to find a pair of your own trousers which you love the fit of and take the waist and hip measurements. You can then compare them to the measurements on the pattern.

Figure shape is something which needs to be considered here, I am more of an inverted triangle these days, figures do change over the years and mine certainly has. I have slim hips which match the size 10 pattern measurements but my waist is more like a size 14 according to the pattern. Personal preference also comes into play here too. I like a snug fit over my hips but I can’t stand waistbands which are too tight. Have a think about how you would like your perfect pair of trousers to fit you and jot some thoughts down in a note book to refer to in the future.

In order to get the fit I want I cut the pattern out to a size 10 from the bottom of the leg up to the hip and then I gradually merged it into the size 14 at the waist. You can do this on ANY pattern by the way; merging different sizes on the one pattern is a great way to achieve perfect fit.

Pin your pattern onto the fabric lining up the grain lines parallel to the edge. Don’t cut it out just yet though, and don’t cut the waistband out at all. Just leave enough fabric to cut it out later. Trace around the side seams where you have merged the two sizes together with tailors chalk and when it comes to cutting out leave an extra inch seam allowance so that you have plenty of fabric to make any adjustments with .

Cut out the trousers and mark the darts and pleats and notches. Please avoid snipping into notches; you may just need the extra fabric if you want to reduce the seam allowance.

I used Tracing Paper and a Tracing Wheel to transfer al the pattern markings onto my fabric. I chose this method because they will not show through to the right side of this fabric.

There is no getting around this next bit. Trousers need to fit correctly or you will never feel good in them, so tack the darts and pleats and then tack the trousers together fully and try them on. Use safety pins to close the left side where the zipper will go. Put your shoes on and take a good critical look in the mirror. Are they too loose anywhere? Do they need letting out anywhere? Are the darts and pleats in the right place for you? Is there anything else you are not happy with? Make all your adjustments now and when you are happy make a note in your book of the alterations you made.

You can now go ahead with making the trousers up according to the pattern instructions but leave the waistband for now.

Put them on again and take your waistband fabric and position it around your waist making a note of the length you need. You don’t need to use the pattern. Iron Fold-a-Band waistband interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and cut around the outside. Pin then tack it to the trousers, fold it to the inside and then try the trousers on again. Once you are satisfied with the fit stitch the band on right sides together. Fold it over along the centre, right sides together and stitch the ends to form the lap to which you will attach a trouser bar and hook as your final step to fasten the waistband with.

Turn the band the right way out and slip-stitch the inside down and press. Then stitch your trouser hook and bar on and try them on again with your shoes on, and pin the hem to where you like it. I never have any help with this so I am used to doing it on my own, hopefully you will have somebody to pin them up for you.

This might  be a good time for you to get your sewing machine manual out and practise your invisible hem. When you have done it once, and figured out on spare fabric how to fold the hem, it will suddenly make sense and you will wonder why you never used it before because this foot gives a lovely invisible hem. If you prefer, you can hand slip-stitch the hem or you can top stitch it on your machine.

I think that it is important for us to grow as sewers so it is always good to learn something new. Sewing should not cause you stress though so if you are struggling with it then do take a class and there are lots and lots of brilliant blogs around - the Blogger Network by Minerva Crafts is utterly brilliant because people with all abilities contribute to it, people new to sewing and more experienced men and women so take a look around, you are sure to be inspired!

Here are a few photos of the finished trousers, I love them!