Simplicity 8248 Afternoon Dress
Posted on Friday the 5th June 2020 by The Unfinished Seamstress
That’s definitely not a Nikon remote in my hand, because I’m clearly a time traveller.
I’ve been stalking this Atelier Brunette viscose crepe
for a while. You know I have a thing about 30’s fashion, even if I’m not a ‘vintage girl’, and I thought this Dune print, in this Maple colour, screamed 1930’s.
It has absolutely beautiful drape, and a lovely crepe texture. One great thing about Atelier Brunette fabrics is the way they're released in cohesive collections. So if you wanted to colour block (an excellent option for this pattern), or do contrast collar and cuffs, or even buy matching bias binding, it’s all available perfectly coordinating. The quality is excellent, and it’s equally beautiful in a modern context.
The pattern, Simplicity 8248
, is another of the Simplicity vintage re-issues that I’m so fond of. I think they're an excellent user-friendly way to try genuine vintage patterns and techniques. Time was, I could trawl charity shops, and later Etsy for vintage patterns, which were always a bit of a gamble in terms of size and condition. Now, I usually let someone else do that work for me. And like them or loathe them, there’s no denying that Big 4 pattern houses have an incredible back catalogue. I’m so pleased they're making it accessible to the average modern home sewist. I had originally planned to make a Simplicity 8504 with this fabric, but I noticed that pattern didn’t seem to be available in the UK (I purchased it in the US, or rather my mom did) so I changed tack after picking this one up in the Minerva sale. Anyway, I’d venture that it was originally from the late 30’s, and it has some wonderful details.
It has a back keyhole opening, pleated sleeves (this is the less voluminous of the two sleeve options - I’m dipping a toe in the puff sleeve waters, ok?), and a Peter Pan collar (that I’m not 100% convinced that I’m pulling off). But the detail I’m completely in love with is the gathered bodice shaping. I have a hundred ideas for hacking this bodice: how about sleeveless, collarless, with an ankle-grazing length? What about as a blouse with lace inserts on the yoke? Anyway, that’s my favourite part.
Fit-wise, I pulled out my trusty sloper to do my flat pattern adjustments. I sized down slightly from the Simplicity recommendation, shortened the bodice about an inch, and the skirt by about 3 inches. The only adjustment I wish I had made, and I’m still considering unpicking to do so, is to shorten the length from neck to shoulder so that the sleeve cap fits perfectly on my shoulder. As it is, I think it’s a good half an inch off, and I won’t lie - it’s really bugging me. Also, you’ll have to excuse me - for some reason my slip was bunching up when I took these photos. The fabric itself is smooth as a baby’s bottom.
Other things bugging me: my machine hems. I’m going to rehem by hand. Also, I have made the belt but I’ve been dithering about what colour buckle to get. What say you? Off-white or tortoiseshell??
Thank you for reading!