Posted on Saturday the 15th February 2020 by Geo P
I love making jackets and coats and I can;t resist a colourful print. I think this pattern was a perfect match to this brightly striped wool blend.
The fabric has a coarse weave which should make it very prone to fraying but that wasn’t the case with this fabric. It didn’t like seam ripping so I stitched with a slightly longer stitch and tried to keep the seam ripper as far away as possible!
The pattern is from the August 2014 Burda. It has a very roomy fit, except for the sleeves which are quite narrow at the bottom - more on that in a bit. I don’t like side seam pockets in coats/jackets so I added angled welt pockets instead. I have also added an inner breast pocket for quick easy access to a card or train ticket.
The sleeves are very long and narrow. I read the reviews on the burdastyle.ru website (with the help of google translate, I don’t speak Russian!) and most of them mentioned how narrow the sleeves were. The pattern piece has an unusual shape for a coat, it starts really wide and then curves in getting very narrow even before the elbow. I straightened the side seams of the sleeves but left them as narrow as designed at the hem. I didn;t want to shorten the sleeves because then the hem would’ve ended up in a weird place with a narrow strip of the cream at the bottom and I think it looks better, more balanced with the stripes (approximately) the same width from top to bottom. The length and width make them very cosy, I can put my hands in to keep them war. Who needs gloves?!
The slit at the back goes all the way to the waist. I was worried it might let the cold in, being so open, but I thought it was an important design element. It is different than what I;ve seen on most patterns so I decided to keep it and maybe sewit close for a few inches. I have worn the coat a couple of times now in freezing weather and I’m happy to say the slit does not impact the warmth of the coat. The slit is very deep, so that might be why?
I cut the facings on the crossgrain so I can keep the lapels all green. It almost worked, there’s a bit of cream showing where it connects to the collar. The collar is also all green with an unfortunate thin strip of white at centre back. That was supposed to be taken in as seam allowance but I needed to let it out a bit because I didn’t have enough for turn of cloth.
I used the Prym chunky snaps as closure. I foolishly ordered just one not realising that the 2 bits in the pack are the front and back, I have incorrectly assumed there would be 2 snaps. I’ll have to get more!
The lining is something I’ve never used before, I don’t think I’ve ever seen one like this. It’s a heavier knit one, quite beefy but slippery enough. It has a gorgeous colour and it makes the coat feel even more cosy.
Thanks for reading and I hope you like it!