Style Arc Blaire in Atelier Brunette Crepe
Posted on Saturday the 17th November 2018 by Geo
The Style Arc Blaire is my recent pattern crush. I made it first this summer and it’s so just easy to wear. I think it looks really cool too with the small cute collar.
The pattern is sleeveless, it only comes with some nice shaped bias cuffs. I really wanted a version that I can wear during the colder months so I decided to try and add some proper sleeves to it.
I used a very accurate method of trying on one of my Blaires over a long sleeve shirt.
The shirt I’m wearing under is an old Burda Pattern with slight dropped shoulders, so I tried both of them on and pinned the Blaire ‘sleeve’ to the Burda sleeve at the underarm and shoulder seam. The difference in length to cuff was about 5 cm/ 2in and my pattern piece looked like this:
The sleeve head shape might be unnecessary, it would’ve probably worked just as well with a symmetrical curve.
There is a little pull from the shoulder seam, I think that seam needs to be a bit longer for the sleeve to hang better. The Burda pattern has instructions for a tower placket but I decided to make a simple bound placket, I think it works better with this soft fabric. I always follow the Sewaholic instructions for that type of placket, and always get good results.
This Atelier Brunette Fabric is really soft and lovely to wear, as you would expect from a crepe. It does like to fray so the seams need to be safely finished. Saying that, I did leave the neckline raw until the end and it didn’t stretch or frayed too badly. But all my seams are enclosed or overlocked so I am not worried about it fraying in the wash.
I usually sew the collar in after the shoulder seams and button bands but this time I didn’t want to change the thread too many times. I had worked with 3 colours - one for each fabric colour (Gutermann 595, 589 and 369) and I think threading the machine 3 times for just one project is about 2 times too many :D. The overlocker was threaded with orange so that I can do a simple overlock and fold hem.
So the plan was to sew everything I needed to sew with one thread colour first and only after that move to the next colour. I did the shoulders and side seams on the upper shirt and sleeves, then the lower shirt side seams and hem, stitched the lower to the upper and finally moved on to the forest green and did the button bands, collar and buttonholes.
I think the colour contrast and slouchy fit has an 80s feel about it. It wasn’t planned but I don’t mind it; it’s fun and cozy and it will get lots of wear!