The Joan Dress
Posted on Saturday the 2nd November 2019 by Sleepless in Bavaria
Hello, hello! It’s been a while since my last post. Summer is officially over and autumn is tempting us with beautiful foliage and terrible downpours, in Germany. This month I decided to make myself a wool dress for the office. I have a few business trips coming up in the next few weeks and wanted to make myself a warm and classic dress that I will be able to wear for a really long time.
I chose this absolutely stunning Italian tweed fabric
and this charcoal acetate lining
for the dress and dug up the Sew Over It Joan Dress, that I’ve had in my stash for donkeys years, but never made up! I adore this pattern, it looks super classy and was just what I was aiming for – however, I hit a few speedbumps on the way to the finished garment.
First of all, I managed to cut out the wrong size, I chose size 12 and only realized how large it ran, after I had put the entire dress together, including the invisible zip. I also moved house during the construction process of this dress and lost both the pattern pieces and the instructions… I KID YOU NOT! They still haven’t turned up. I also managed to break the zip when I tried the dress on the first time (Note to self, ALWAYS use YKK zips!!!)
Anyway, once I set up my new sewing space, I took out the Joan Dress and took it apart. I took in the sides by 1 cm and the darts in the front and back by 1 cm. I also took in the sleeves by 1,5 cm which left them being a bit snug. However, the fit of the dress was greatly improved! I put in a YKK zip on the first try and it is completely invisible and the back seams match up perfectly! SUCCESS!! The only thing that didn’t turn out that great was the neck-tie, as I couldn’t find the instructions, I had to improvise a bit and I am quite sure that I attached the ties to the wrong part of the neckline. Also, the fabric is quite rigid, which is why the one tie is sticking of at such a strange angle. There is a quick ix to that….PIN IT DOWN WITH A BROOCH! LOL! That is exactly what I plan to do when I wear it!
As for the fabrics, The tweed is wonderful to work with, has a nice weight and presses really wonderfully – it does fray quite a bit. I therefore recommend, you overlock all the edges before sitting down to sew anything and apply some interfacing before putting in the zip, it will give the fabric some support and you won’t have to worry about the zip ripping out at any point.
The acetate lining is really a dream to work with, I actually bought a bunch of it in different colors, that I can always choose from, when I’m making a project that requires lining.
Phew! That was the Joan dress, wishing you all a wonderful November!