This month I am back on Minerva with a new jacket. I used the Nenuphar jacket pattern from Deer&Doe because I was intrigued by the notched collar and  gathered back.  The wine gabardine twill suiting fabric felt like the best choice.

For my jacket I’ve been playing around with elements from the two versions of the pattern included: I used the sleeves and pockets from the shorter version with the bodice from the longer jacket.  Usually with Deer and Doe patterns I have to shorten the sleeves, but I made no changes to the length of the sleeves on this view because I wanted the sleeves to be longer than the intended ¾ length.

Although the solid colour is perfect for the outside of this jacket, I felt that it was still missing something. It needed a bit more colour. Also, due to the fact that the jacket is quite easy to make, I added a bit of work when I decided to use bias take to finish the raw edges of the fabric.  In my mind just overlocking them would have made my jacket boring in my eyes.

I thought I had enough bias tape to do all the seams, but I was wrong. Although 6 m of continuous tape would have just about done the job, because I had my bias tape in two lengths of 3 m, I have had to improvise (to read: created a design feature) and the sleeves have a different colour finish.

The fabric although it frayed a bit more than I likes, was fairly easy to work with. I had to remind myself to be careful when pressing during construction to try to always do it on the wrong side of the fabric. 

I decided to skip on using interfacing for the top part of the pocket and the collar.  I just hope I won’t be sorry later, when I wash it a few times. But the fabric is quite thick and I didn’t thing it needed the extra strength interfacing could give it.

Usually, I stir away from patterns with gathers or I change the gathers to pleats, on this pattern (if making view A – shorter jacket with short sleeves) I like the gathers in the back. It just elevates the jacket from a boring one to one that has that little detail that makes it interesting.

I love the fact that the collar matches the collar with the V cut out. It add a little design detail that makes the jacket more attractive, without being over the top.

Due to how simple the pattern it didn’t take that long to make, even with the extra work I gave myself, with using bias tape binding to finish the raw edges of the fabric.

I love how this jacket ended up fitting me. It had a lot of ease and I think come the spring and summer, maybe even the autumn, I’ll be wearing it a lot. it’s so perfect for layering during warmer seasons. 

Sewing Summary:

Pattern:  Nenufar from Deer and Doe - Short wide-sleeve jacket with gathered back. Version A has ¾ sleeves and patch pockets, version B has long gathered sleeves.

Sizing:  French 34-46 (the patterns are designed for a person who is 1.68 m or 5ft6)

Fabric:   3 m wine gabardine twill suiting

Notions:  7 m of 2 cm wide bias tape, fabric call for interfacing for the collar and top part of the pocket lining, but I used none in my project.

Modifications:  I cut size 40 based on my body measurements and I did not shorten the sleeves nor the bodice length as I prefer longer jackets and sleeves.

Instructions: printed pattern pack includes 2 instruction booklets one in English (with imperial measurements – inches) and one in French (regular measurements – cm) no doubt so does the PDF version. I did not follow the instructions apart from checking the seam allowance and glanced at the diagrams for the order of construction which I did not follow anyway. What can I say I like to freestyle it.

Fit:  I was happy with how finished jacket fits

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?:  yes and no, because of the modifications I was supposed to do, but didn’t

Watch out for:   Be careful when stitching the collar. There is not much extra space when sewing it to the body of the jacket, so I decided that for the seam allowance between collar and it’s facing to use 1 cm instead of the recommended one of 1.5 cm

Make Again?: Yes.  I actually made two jackets. One for myself and one for a friend who can wear the same size as me.

Thank you for taking the time to read my blog post. And please do share your makes on Instagram/Twitter by tagging @Minervadotcom and/or using the hashtag #MinervaMakes. I’d love to see what you create.

Simona @ Sewing Adventures in the Attick