The Plaid Suit
Posted on Saturday the 15th June 2019 by Geo P
I have a big crush on plaid fabrics, I find it very difficult to stay away from them. One of my recent projects involving plaid was the Burda coat I made for the Dec 2018 blog post. (I can’t believe it’s been half a year already!!)
Plaids do take more time as you need to carefully plan where each main line will fall and then make sure you match as much as you can. Also, all pieces need to be cut single layer. But I think it is worth it, I love wearing plaid. And this month I’m going big with a plaid suit!
The balzer pattern is the same I used for my March project blazer. I have slightly adapted it to work better with plaid by changing the dart. Instead of going all the way down from bust to hem, now it only goes into the pocket, and the piece that’s left from the side panel under the pocket is directly connected to the centre. This allows for a continuous hem on the front.
The trousers are a Burda pattern as well, from the Nov 2013 issue. I wanted a pair of slim trousers, I thought they will go well with the oversized jacket.
The fabric is a poly viscose Suiting Fabric that I loved the minute I laid my eyes on it. It’s medium weight and it feels very soft, almost silky. The polyester in it makes it very practical. I wore the trousers all day and they didn’t wrinkle at all.
For lining the jacket and the trousers pockets I used this striped Acetate Lining in camel. I liked the neutral colour against the colourful plaid.
The stripe was helpful when cutting, it was easy to check I’m cutting on grain. I was a bit worried because the lining was very staticy while working with it, but it feels great when worn.
I tried to match as much as possible.
The sleeve head to the front:
The pocket welts:
The collar at the back:
And I even tried to match the lines on the jacket and trousers along the hip. A bit overkill but while I was at it... :D
I was very careful not to get a chevron on the front crotch, but I totally didn’t pay the same attention when cutting the back!
Both the jacket and the trousers close with a Large Metal Snap Fastener. The jacket blazer asked for a snap and I decided to use it on the trousers too. It is a bit bulky for the trousers but it does the job well, I’ll leave it as it is.
I cut the lapels off grain so that I can have the main red line running along the edges.
I followed two tutorials when sewing this suit, I always like seeing photos/diagrams of steps, even if I made the same garment before and used the same techniques. For the jacket there’s this Sewing Lesson on the BurdaStyle website which I found helpful. For the trousers fly and waistband attachment I checked Close Case Sasha trousers tutorials.
I can’t wait to wear this more, at the moment it has only had its first outing to the town market last weekend, worn with the Ruska t-shirt I made a couple of months back. Totally appropriate to wear it while on a walk in the town centre!