The Rumana Coat
Posted on Saturday the 1st December 2018 by Bianca Szekely
Good morning, everyone! I hope you’re well and that you’re coping with the winter temperatures. It snowed in Germany last week and I was not really mentally prepared for that! HAHAH Speaking of keeping warm: My November Make for the MCBN is the By Hand London Rumana Coat!
I will admit, this was definitely a rather more advanced make and you need a lot of time, patience and snacks to tackle it.
When I first was looking through fabrics to choose for this project, I fell in love with the heather grey Lady McElroy Coating Fabric and the Lady McElroy Cotton Lawn Fabric in duck egg. Both fabrics looked as if they’d work really well together – and they do!
The Rumana Coat is a beautifully tailored coat with lots of lovely details, including a notched collar and side pockets. The length of the coat is a very current tea length and the coat is fastened with 4 buttons. I had the pattern printed at a copy shop and there are a total of 5 sheets, that you’ll have to cut out. I recommend putting on a podcast or watching TV while you do this!
The coating I chose, is quite light (I didn’t check to see if it was heavy coating when I ordered it, it says medium and this falls under “he who reads the fine print has the advantage!”). I interfaced the entire shell with an interfacing meant for wool coats and then used a crisper interfacing for the coat/sleeve hems, collar and facing and it turned out really well!
Since German winters are notoriously cold and I didn’t want to wait until spring to wear this coat I decided to quilt some interlining to the lining pieces. All you have to do is cut out the lining pieces again and quilt them to the lining (I spaced out the quilting lines approx.. 7 cm apart, but it is up to you how you’d like to do it!). I often use fleece blankets for this, for my Rumana I used Interlining I had in my stash to gives the coat an extra bit of warmth.
Construction wise, I used the sew along on the BHL homepage for a lot of the more tricky parts, such as the collar, sewing the pockets and attaching the lining. The only issue I had, was with the vent. I just couldn’t make it lie flat, however Elisalex from By Hand London got in touch over Instagram and promised that a video tutorial would be released, shortly.
I had initially thought about using a satin for the sleeves of the lining, which would have made getting in and out of the coat a bit easier. But when I started making the coat I completely forgot about it and to be honest, I don’t really have any issues getting in and out of the coat! I did have to requilt the back part of the lining, as the lines didn’t match up….AT ALL!!! I have no idea how that happened! I adore the lawn, it’s really soft and the color of the fabric and the polka dots always make me smile.
As for the shell, after you’ve put the sides with the pockets together, putting the rest of the coat together is quite simple. I really enjoyed topstitching everything, it makes the coat look really professional! My favorite part of making coats is bagging them out. This was the first time I did this with a vent and I definitely learned a few new tricks.
I’ve never owned a grey coat and it goes with a lot of things in my closet, which makes me super happy. The lining gives the coat that extra pop of color and makes it a bit more special.