The Tremont Jacket by The Sewing Workshop
Posted on Tuesday the 3rd September 2019 by Sewing Angela
I love The Sewing Workshop Patterns
. They have just enough difficulty about them to make you think, but are not impossibly hard even for beginners. They are edgy and just that bit different. I have made several of their patterns and wear each garment lots of times, using the patterns more than once too.
For this design I chose a Boiled Wool Fabric
in cerise pink. This fabric is easy to cut and easy to sew and the best news is that as it doesn't fray you do not even have to worry about finishing the seams.
One thing I must stress is that the fabric needs to be laid out flat, without folding it in half, for cutting out. I had to lay my fabric on the floor as my cutting table is not large enough to accommodate it.
It is also vitally important that you follow the cutting layout exactly. The jacket is asymmetrical in design and the two large front pieces need to be cut out in a single piece.
Make sure that you place the pattern pieces according to the layout guide, flipping the sleeve pattern over for the second sleeve so that you have a left and a right.
For the back, place the pattern onto the fabric, draw round it with tailors chalk and carefully matching the centre back and top and bottom flip the pattern as in the above layout guide (it's pattern piece number 3) so that you have one back piece only.
Then transfer all pattern markings to the fabric and mark the back of every pattern piece with tailors chalk so that you know which is the right side and which is the back.
There are four mitred corners to sew. The instructions are brilliant, very easy to follow and by the time you have finished them all you can officially add a new skill to your accomplishments.
Don't forget to ignore any reference to finishing the seams if you have chosen boiled wool as it doesn't need hemming.
This is one of my mitred corners showing the unfinished hems which work brilliantly as there is no additional bulk.
The only change I made was to mark the match points on the mitre with tacking thread as it made it much simpler to check that I was happy with each of them before machine stitching. Pins made it awkward to turn the corner right sides out I found.
I thought it might be nice to bind the facing with a piece of bias binding but you can leave this out if you prefer. Or if you are using a fabric which frays you may decide to bind all the raw edges instead of finishing them.
With the addition of a button and buttonhole there was practically little else to do. The sleeves were sewn in flat before stitching the side seams which is always easy, and all the seams were top stitched to hold them in place. After top-stitching, trim the fabric close to the stitching, the boiled wool won't fray.
If you prefer you could use a large popper or a magnetic clasp instead of the button and buttonhole.
I cannot praise this garment enough I absolutely love it. The fabric is simply gorgeous and the simple design looks amazing. What is there not to love about it?
I do hope that you will make this beautiful jacket too - it's so practical indoors or out and would be great for travelling too.
Thank you Minerva for this beautiful fabric. I love it so much.