Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat
Posted on Saturday the 23rd November 2019 by Wanderstitch
Sarah from Wanderstitch here again, bringing you - for once - a seasonally appropriate make!
Any of you that follow my blog or Instagram will know that I sew for both myself and my husband, and this month I've treated him to a new jacket because it’s well and truly cold here in the UK now.
I’ve sewn him a couple of jackets before using Vogue 8940, but the fit was very slim-fitting, and the armscye wasn’t particularly great - it was really low and meant that arm movement was restricted, so I was on the lookout for an alternative pattern.
The pattern I've used this time around is the Goldstream Peacoat from Thread Theory Patterns. Thread Theory produce some excellent sewing patterns for men's garments - their Comox Trunks pattern is my go-to underwear pattern, and I've recently made their Quadra Jeans with success too! They have fabulous modern designs with really good, detailed instructions that are designed to help you achieve a great finish rather than leave you trying to remember to do those little 'tricks' that are never actually written down explicitly. With the Goldstream, these little things include mounting your label on to a square of lining fabric - I've never thought to do this before but the results are EPIC!
I used some olive green boiled wool coating fabric which is super thick and warm and shows up topstitching beautifully, along with a silky polyester/viscose blend lining. I've used this lining in a few coats now and it's a firm favourite with me! It coordinates really well with the wool fabric, which has a lovely texture with white strands mixed in with the green - which is GREAT for us as it hides dog hair :) Small gold metal shank buttons finish off the look.
A few coats back, I realised that using lining fabric for the pocket bags is not the way forward (because of fraying, and also hand-feel). I started using cotton flannel for the linings, and it's been a complete game changer! Especially on winter coats, the flannel gives more support and feels nice and toasty against your hand.
You can, if you wish, also sew epaulettes and cuff bands (pattern pieces are provided in the envelope) but I left these off this time around - I say ‘this time around’ because I fully expect to make another one of these someday!
I always sew buttons onto the reverse of heavy blazer buttons - I worry that the shank and the pull of the thread will eventually damage the outer fabric of the coat. A plastic button on the inside of the coat helps stop the fabric from being distorted. I used odd buttons from a vintage tin of buttons, it made me happy to give them a purpose in life! The fabric was a little thick and my machine actually struggled with the buttonholes a little - usually, it’s fine with whatever I throw at it but for these buttonholes I had to guide the fabric by hand a bit to make sure it didn’t get stuck. For the next version, I’ll either consider sewing the buttonholes by hand or perhaps using bound buttonholes instead.
The roomy pockets are patch pockets and are topstitched directly onto the coat - the husband much prefers these to pockets within the side seam because they’re bigger and more sturdy. I even installed a little coat hanging hook as well - something that I ALWAYS forget to do on coats and only remember when it’s too late!
I really can't rate Thread Theory patterns high enough - as well as the patterns I've already made I also have several more of their patterns in the queue. I definitely see another Goldstream in the husband's future too - next time in a size small rather than the medium. The husband is a 38-inch chest and fell right in the middle of the sizes, so I went for the larger size but actually the smaller one would be fine. Never mind, it gives me the perfect excuse to make another one!
I hope you've enjoyed the post, and if you've been on the fence about sewing outerwear I say GO FOR IT!
Sarah // Wanderstitch