Thread Theory Quadra Jeans
Posted on Saturday the 26th October 2019 by Wanderstitch
Hi everyone! Sarah from Wanderstitch here again, this month with my first pair of men’s jeans!
If you follow my blog, you’ll know that making jeans is something that I’m fairly new to - because basically I was scared to make them! But then I bit the bullet and figured that the only way to get better was to actually start practising - you can see my first pair of jeans here on Minerva.
I sew for both myself and my husband, so once I’d made jeans for myself I wanted to move on to men’s jeans. There are considerably fewer jeans patterns out there for men than there are for women, but when Canadian brand Thread Theory released their Quadra Jeans recently, I snapped up the pattern knowing that I would make them when I felt my skills allowed.
The pattern calls for stretch denim, which tends to be a bit softer and thinner (and therefore easier to sew with!) than rigid denim. I used this dark indigo stretch denim, with a contrast mustard topstitching thread. I’ve found that Gutermann Extra Strong thread tends to do better in my machine than actual topstitching thread, so I always use that now.
If you choose an intensely dark denim, I’d recommend pre-washing your fabric a couple of times - I washed mine just once, as I usually do, and when I handled the wet fabric to take it out of the machine some dye transferred onto my hands! A second wash did the trick, and the first time the completed jeans were washed after wearing I put them in the machine on their own, just in case.
As well as your denim you’ll need some woven fabric for the pocket bags - anything will do, and if you’re wanting to use up scraps remember that there are no requirements for both pockets to match! I used some leftover Liberty cotton lawn from a previous shirt I’d made for the husband.
You start with the back pockets, so it’s a good idea to go into this project with some sort of an idea as to the topstitching design you’ll use. If you’re after some inspiration though, there are some topstitching guides included within the pattern so you can choose from one of those! To get a good finish on your topstitching, use a slightly longer stitch length (3mm or 3.5mm is good), and don’t backstitch at the start and end - instead, pull the threads through on to the reverse and tie them off. It’s always good to practice your topstitching on some scraps to check everything’s okay before going ahead with your ‘real’ fabric, and it definitely also helps to write down your tension/stitch length details in the pattern instructions so that if you make the pattern again you can get straight to the sewing!
The jeans actually come together quite quickly and easily - the most complicated bit is definitely the fly but the instructions will guide you through it, and once you’ve done it a couple of times you’ll be a pro! The stretch element of the denim means that the jeans are a little more forgiving on fit, and very comfy to wear. The insides are finished with enclosed flat fell seams (don’t worry - instructions provided!) and I finished mine off with some brass rivets, even though the pattern doesn’t call for them. I just like the way they look :)
Overall, I’m *very* happy with my first attempt at men’s jeans! They fit the husband pretty well, though he has requested a small adjustment for the next pair. If you’re not familiar with Thread Theory and you sew menswear, I’d absolutely recommend that you check them out! I’ve made their Comox Trunks, Goldstream Peacoat and also their Fairfield Shirt, and every one of those has been a success. The patterns are well-drafted, and the instructions are very thorough and comprehensive - they get an enthusiastic thumbs up from me!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this post - I’m moving into winter sewing now so expect to see a lot of coats from me in coming months!
Sarah // Wanderstitch