Posted on Sunday the 22nd September 2019 by Tip Top Sewing
A traditional shirt is a staple of a men’s wardrobe. Made in a light pale colour, it can become the most worn outfit be it for a formal occasion or smart casual reasons, be it with a tie or jacket, or even with rolled-up sleeves. I made my husband a shirt about a year ago. It is a nice and comfortable one, but it has one feature that makes it impossible to wear with a jacket - horizontal stripes. That’s how it was designed to be used, so I didn’t risk it and placed the pattern pieces to achieve the Michael Douglas' Gekko shirt effect.
Because I didn’t achieve the goal of a versatile shirt, I kept on looking for appropriate fabric. Luckily I found Lady McElroy Cotton Shirting Fabric
which seemed perfect for what I was looking for. It’s an easy to work with fabric and it has a lovely light blue colour which goes with everything. Just like most of the shirting fabrics, it has a woven print created with white and bright blue threads.
The interfacing I used was Vilene G700
light-medium woven iron-on fusible interlining which matches all the requirements. It’s thin enough, yet it gives a good stiff feeling to the collar, collar stand and cuffs. And it’s made out of pure cotton. I usually get one or two meters of it a year and it goes a long way and allows me to use it on all of the projects I have throughout the year.
I used Burda 7045
pattern and liked almost everything about it - it has different collar options and it’s easy to adjust it. I also love the fact that it has darts, which is a nice touch for a traditional shirt. The only serious thing I had to change was the collar slits. The pattern includes a very quick and messy way of making them which I changed for a traditional one.
Another thing I added was the collar stay slits. They aren’t included in the pattern but are very easy to make with an extra collar piece. It’s a must for traditional shirts and I didn’t want to skip it. And the actual collar stays I used came in a big amount, which gives us a chance to use it for numerous projects and build up the stiffness of the collar.
As for the stitches, I used flat ones, since they’re the most appropriate ones for the shirt. I finished my shirt with a very traditional touch - genuine mother of pearls buttons. Those are the ones that are used on the most classy and expensive ready to wear and bespoke shirts. I can highly recommend both the pattern and fabric. Together (and all of the notions I used) they can make a very decent traditional shirt for a classy gentleman.