Posted on Saturday the 18th May 2019 by Made In My Living Room
I’ve had these cool trousers on my list for a very long time. The Pattern is from the March 2011 Burda issue so maybe about 8 years? :)
The pattern asks for lightweight trouser fabrics with some body. I think denim and any light to medium cotton twill would work well. I went for Cotton Sateen Fabric this time and I’m very pleased with how they turned out.
There is a very wide range of cotton sateens on the Minerva websites and I wasn’t quite sure which one to go for, what the difference might be so I ordered 4 samples to compare.
I’m listing them here from lightest to heaviest:
Plain Stretch Cotton Dress Fabric
Plain Stretch Cotton Sateen Dress Fabric
Plain Jardin Stretch Cotton Sateen Dress Fabric
Lady McElroy Stretch Cotton Sateen Fabric
I went with #1 in navy because it is the lightest and I thought it would work best with this pattern. This fabric doesn’t feel very stretchy and because of its weight I wouldn’t use it for something very form fitting.
#2 is the cheapest but it’s very good value. It has better recovery and it’s only slightly heavier than the first one.
The last two, #3 and #4, feel quite different. They have more body and recovery, they would be perfect for slim trousers, pencil skirts or body hugging sheath dresses.
The pattern has front pockets that close with a flap and back welt pockets. I like the front ones a lot but I don’t think those flaps will ever be buttoned. Here’s some evidence, even though I find it very difficult to show details in such a dark fabric.
It’s a nice pretty detail but not very practical. Not for me anyway, I prefer stuffing my pockets with keys, my phone etc rather than carrying a bag.
The back welt pockets are ‘fake’. I like the look of welt pockets on the back but I find they always gape and I don’t like that very much. So after inserting the welts, instead of sewing in the pocket bags I just sewn an overlocked rectangle of fabric over the back. The welts are interfaced so I didn’t interface the rectangle too but I did cut its long edge along the straight grain for more stability.
I’m 5’2” (maybe 2 inches and a half on a good day) and I had to shorten the pattern quite a bit. I normally shorten the crotch by 2cm but for this pattern I made it 3 cm shorter. I have shortened them 5cm at the knee too.
I think the drop crotch and wide elastic cuffs make these trousers really cool. I left out the belt loops because I rarely wear belts but my waist shrunk since I started these trousers and I think I need to go back and add the loops!
Now the big question:
Who did it better? :D