Vintage Dior Coat
Posted on Saturday the 28th December 2019 by Wanderstitch
Sarah from Wanderstitch here again, bringing you another coat! (You know how much I love sewing coats!)
Last month on Minerva, I sewed the Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat for the husband - this month it’s a vintage Dior coat for me!
I can’t resist a double-breasted coat - something about the way they look just really appeals to me. I bought this original vintage pattern off Etsy a while back - there was only one available and it was my size, so I thought it was meant to be.
Vintage patterns were single-sized, so rather than getting multiple sizes in an envelope and being able to trace and grade between sizes to suit your shape, you just get the one size. I thought that I would initially make the pattern as written, as a wearable toile, and then make any adjustments for the second time around - I have a piece of cashmere that I picked up in Paris a couple of years ago set aside for that perfect coat pattern, and this may well be it.
I’ve sewn a vintage Simplicity coat pattern before (which you can read about here) but this is my first vintage Vogue Designer pattern. There’s really no detail spared with these - bound buttonholes come as standard, and there’s a lot of hand stitching - which I don’t actually mind. The garments you make are meant to be a replica of how these items would have been constructed in the designer’s atelier, so you don't get let off lightly!
I chose a pink wool/viscose blend coating for the outside, cotton flannel for the interlining and a beautiful silk satin for the lining. You don’t see the interlining at all, so it doesn’t matter what the fabric looks like - you’re more concerned with its properties. In my case, I wanted something warm as the outer fabric wasn’t super thick, plus from the pictures on the pattern envelope, it looked like the coat was quite structured so I thought a heavier interlining might help with achieving this.
The bound buttonholes, although time-consuming, really do make the coat look next level. It is really tempting to save what is, admittedly, quite a lot of time by whizzing it through the sewing machine for some buttonholes, but it’s not going to look as good. There’s even a functional bound buttonhole on the sleeve! As I said, no detail spared with these designer patterns. The only thing I thought that the design was missing was some piping between the lining and the coat facing - so I added this myself. I used some turquoise bias tape and some 2mm piping cord and made my own, and coordinates really well with the lining. I also mounted my label onto a small square of lining fabric, a tip I picked up from my Goldstream Peacoat that I made last month!
If you follow my sewing shenanigans on social media, you might know that I’m a BIG fan of topstitching. Especially topstitching on coats. But this pattern doesn’t have any! You can see that they’ve gone for clean lines on this design - you’re reliant on your pressing skills to get a good crisp edge, and the pockets are hand stitched on to the body of the coat.
I absolutely adore the domed metal buttons that I chose - they are quite similar to what’s on the pattern envelope (which is probably where I got my inspiration from!) but I love the military look they give. The silk lining is a bit of luxury that really makes a difference too - it’s much less sweaty than a regular poly lining, and let’s be honest it’s a beautiful print.
I’m really happy with how the coat turned out - I could do with a little bit more room at the shoulders, and perhaps a little more room at the hip, so these will be adjustments that I'll make on the next version.
Thanks for reading - happy sewing!
Sarah // Wanderstitch