Vintage Vogue 2613
Posted on Saturday the 22nd February 2020 by Wanderstitch
Sarah from Wanderstitch here again, back on Minerva with another coat for the husband! A couple of months back you might have seen my Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat, this time I've made him a more formal affair.
I find that there's not so much choice in men's coat sewing patterns available, but I saw this vintage Vogue 2613 pattern for sale and snapped it up. It does have a very 80's vibe, but I kinda like that!
Fabric-wise, I chose this wool and viscose blend (in Bordeaux) for the outside and a poly satin for the inside. Polyester isn't usually my first choice for lining fabrics - I've found that quality and feel can vary considerably - but this satin is super soft and silky - it hardly feels like a poly at all! You could totally use it for a slinky dress or top, as well as for a lining.
I also went with some piping cord, burgundy bias tape, a hanging chain and some domed metal buttons (larger size for the front of the coat, smaller for the sleeve cuffs).
As always with coats, there are a lot of pieces to cut out - not only the main fabrics, but also the interfacing and the lining. If a complete cutting list isn't included with the pattern, I find it helpful to write my own based on what's noted on the individual pattern pieces and then tick it off as I go along, to make sure I have cut everything. There's nothing worse than getting halfway through your coat only to have to haul the leftover fabric out and cut another piece!
One of the husband's pet peeves with coat and jacket patterns is inseam pockets - they're always too small, and at a funny angle. He prefers patch pockets, or at least a decent-sized welt pocket. Thankfully, this pattern has the latter, with a flap to keep everything stowed safely. I lined them with flannel rather than the polyester satin, to keep his hands toasty when it's cold.
I used sleeve head for the first time, rather than a shoulder pad - I'm not sure I can tell the difference, but I'm sure there must be one! I also sewed mitred corners on the sleeve cuffs - a nice little touch in the pattern, given that most sleeve hems are just sewn as one piece. I used fusible interfacing in the coat, but if you're feeling adventurous you can use sew-in (or even hair canvas!) and attempt the pad stitching that's suggested.
A clapper is an essential tool if you're working with coat-weight woollens - it will help you to flatten the seam allowances to keep your seams looking nice from the outside. Steam is also your friend, to help persuade fabric into place!
As always with vintage patterns, the instructions aren't exactly explicit - so in some cases, you're left reading between the lines to figure out what you need to do. Don't let this put you off sewing vintage patterns though - I'd recommend sewing a modern pattern of a similar garment (a dress, or coat etc) so you know roughly how it all goes together, and then go for it!
The viscose element of the fabric gives it a little more drape than I was expecting - so this fabric would also work well for patterns where the structure isn't important, like casual jackets. For a super-cold weather coat, you'd probably want to use some interlining - cotton flannel would be a good choice!