Posted on Friday the 31st January 2020 by The Athenian Maker
Hello Minerva makers,
This month I made another Paco Peralta for Vogue pattern, It’s pattern nr. 1583, a fitted, sleevles and lined dress featuring a two way separating zipper closure. Designed for Pique, Ponte Knit, Denim, Wool Crepe fabrics, it is a gorgeous pattern and depending on the fabric you choose can be worn both in winter and summer. I chose a Lady McElroy stretch denim in olive green color ,a lovely quality with a good stretch.
I followed the chart size that placed me in size 18 and cutted that one, I didn’t make a toile but I machine basted all the outer pieces of the dress to check the fit. The front looked great but the back had a lot of excessive fabric around the waist, I took in the center back seam of the bodice by 1.5 cm and the two princes seams by 1 cm each, also did a sway back adjustment of 3cm. Since the back bodice became narrower it didn’t fit anymore the waistline of the skirt, two fix that I added darts just under the princes seams. The fit looks great when I first wear the dress but when I start walking the back skirt climbs upwards, I guess this means there is not enough fabric around the hips and I should have graded between sizes , if you have any suggestions on this or how to fix it please do tell.
Appart from the fitting part this dress is really easy to make, there are many steps because of the many pattern pieces but all the pieces match perfectly with each other and it is straight sewing, not any special sewing techniques involved.
The dress is partially lined with self fabric and partially with lining fabric. The front is completely lined with self fabric and the back with both lining and self fabric, I didn’t quite follow this for two reasons. Firstly because I had not ordered enough fabric, pattern required for 2.2 meters of 152 meters width while my fabric had 140cm width. As a result I could not cut the lining pieces for the side front skirt, I have to admire though how precise the fabric quantity recommendation was as I don’t like it when designers suggest much bigger metrage than needed as I don’t want to have leftovers.
I have noticed that designers’ patterns of Vogue are quite true to size and fabric quantities. Secondly, I want to be able to wear this dress during all seasons and lined dresses are not very suitable during hot Athenian summers. As a result I preferred to use the self fabric lining pieces that were necessary for finishing the sleeve and neck openings as well as the center front piece fabric and use Hug Snug binding to finish all the other seams of the dress.
As this dress has a two way open end zipper closure in the front, it requires for a 107 cm long zipper that runs from left shoulder all the way down the hem. My zipper was only 80 cm long so I had adjust the placement and since I was never going to wear it with the zipper closed up to the shoulder I placed it starting just at the upper bust and ending about 7 centimeters above the hem line.
That’s’ all about this dress, really love the result and look forward to wear it!