Vogue 8825 in Lady McElroy Bolton Fabric
Posted on Tuesday the 6th November 2018 by Sewing Angela
Lady McElroy Fabrics
are very high quality and are superb to work with. This one, named Bolton, is a 96% viscose 4% spandex Jersey Fabric
. It is fluid and drapes well and the print is just stunning.
To complement the fabric I chose Vogue V8825
. There are two choices of outfits to sew in this pattern, a dress and a tunic and trousers.
I had intended to make the tunic but when I looked at the fabric I realised that I had just about enough to make the dress if I was inventive with cutting out.
In order to fit the pattern onto the fabric, I shortened the sleeves - which I needed to do anyway and to gain enough fabric to comfortably fit the pattern pieces on all I needed to do was to shorten the very long tie belt by around 4". In all honesty this was a good move as the tie belt is very long.
If you are trying to fit a pattern onto a piece of fabric it is still important to keep the grain lines correct or your garment will not hang correctly.
This pattern states that it is "very easy" but in my opinion there are a couple of challenges which a total beginner may find complicated so I suggest that you need some sewing knowledge and a bit of patience if you choose this pattern.
To enable a smooth process it is necessary to transfer every single pattern marking onto the fabric, if you don't do this you will waste time pondering what goes where.
I used a mixture of tailors tacks and a air-vanishing marker pen, taking care that it didn't show through to the right side of the fabric and removing it with a damp cloth before pressing. This is vital as pressing any sort of marker pen can and does make it permanent.
One of the places which needs to be marked carefully is the bodice. It is also important to reinforce the inward corner of the bodice front as it needs to be clipped up to the reinforcement stitching in order to create the self facings.
The pleats at the front need folding and basting within the seam allowance to hold them in place.
After this the dress becomes easier. I made the tie belt - which is plenty long enough - and basted it onto the side seams with the seam facing down towards the waist.
The pattern instructions are easy to follow, just take care when attaching the back facing to pivot on the dot at the front shoulder otherwise you will leave a hole.
This is where a heavily patterned fabric comes in handy as any tiny errors will not be seen.
The sleeves are cut in one piece with the back and the front sleeve is attached to the bodice front so they are very easy to insert - there is just a seam along the top.
The bottom of the sleeves need gathering onto the cuff.
To gather them run a double row of long straight stitches within the seam allowance and pull on the ends of the stitching in order to gather them to fit the cuffs which I made very easily.
Distribute the gathers evenly and stitch the cuffs to the sleeve right sides together. Overlocking the seam to neaten if possible.
The bodice is totally finished before the skirt is made.
The skirt has darts at the back and a centre back seam.
These need to be matched carefully to the darts and centre back seam of the bodice so pin and tack the bodice to the skirt matching all seams and darts, stitch and overlock. If you do not have an overlocker then use a wide zigzag or the overedge stitch on your sewing machine.
The hem just needs finishing and give it a final press.
This dress took a few hours to sew together and a couple more to transfer all the pattern markings onto the fabric.
Lady McElroy fabrics are a firm favourite of mine. The quality is consistently excellent and the designs are just beautiful.