Who Says Jeans Have To Be Denim And Who Said They Have To Be Plain?
Posted on Tuesday the 4th June 2019 by Sewing Angela
I have spent a few weeks exploring various patterns and fabrics and came to the conclusion that so long as you choose the type of fabric recommended on the pattern (eg stretch, woven etc) and you take the time to fit your garment properly you really can use any pattern in whatever style suits you best and choose a fabric appropriate for the season.
When deciding which pattern to use you must first decide what style suits you best. All well and good if you already own a pair of jeans which you love but if you don't then it's a great idea to go and try lots on until you find a fit which you love and if possible take a selfie.
You also need to measure yourself honestly as this is the only way to choose which pattern size you need to cut out.
I have as I said spent weeks researching jeans patterns and I have made many wearable test garments. Please do not skip this stage as it is vital that you get the fit right. Choose a fabric with the same properties as the fabric you will eventually be making your final pair in. In this case I needed a four way stretch fabric so I made test garments in inexpensive four way stretch suiting - and they turned out so well that I do wear them. A lot.
Your style may be different to mine but I like a high waisted skinny jean. They seem to flatter my figure and my top always stays tucked in!
You must choose the style which you love the best though.
There are straight leg, flared leg, wide leg, low rise, high rise so you see there is the perfect pair for you somewhere.
If you have chosen a Closet Case Jeans pattern then there are excellent sew-along tutorials
you can follow.
They are so good that I recommend you take a look before you start to sew. I cannot add anything more to them, even the pattern instruction book is brilliant so I shall merely add my own comments and observations.
You need to sew your jeans with a jeans thread and a jeans needle this is because a normal thread would snap with the wear which jeans tend to get.
You will also need a jeans buttons and rivets - although on this pair there is enough going on with the floral fabric so I didn't use rivets at all.
There are full instructions in the pattern and online on how to stitch both the pockets and the front fly.
There is a guide included in the pattern which you need to draw around with tailors chalk before top stitching over the marking. You must use something which is very easy to remove from your fabric and in my opinion tailors chalk is best.
My pocket linings are in a pale blue cotton fabric. I chose this colour as it will not show through the white part of my main fabric. Cotton is used for its non-stretch properties, it gives great support and helps to tame the stretch around your waist holding your tummy in!
If you are making skinny jeans you will probably think that you have cut your pattern out incorrectly as the front and back legs are different lengths.
This is to provide ease when moving and sitting and you need to run a gathering stitch between the hip and knee on the longer piece and easing the front and back together much as you do when easing in a sleeve.
Skinny jeans therefore will inevitably look slightly wrinkled at the back - this is normal otherwise you would feel as though you were wearing a straight-jacket for your legs!
When it comes to the waistband you have choices. I find it enough to have the front in my main fabric and the facing in cotton. If you want a stiffer waistband then use interfacing and if you want a stretch waistband then cut both pieces out in your main jean fabric. It will still have enough give in it when the topstitching is complete.
I like to slip stitch the facing down before top stitching although the pattern says to just turn the facing in by the seam allowance and catch it down with the topstitching. Whatever suits you is fine.
I do like to wear a belt and so I added the belt loops as suggested. They further add to the professional finish anyway, so definitely include them.
The colours match my blouse in my previous post
perfectly - which is why I chose them. The royal blue and the white together look so cool and fresh and summery.
Perfect for an evening out with a matching jumper for when it turns chilly and perfect with a plain blue T-Shirt for sight seeing and shopping trips.
This outfit is both comfortable and stylish and I love it. The stretch fabric means that they are comfortable enough to travel in or to sit around in all day.
To make it suitable for cooler days simply add a pullover in a matching colour for effortless style and comfort.
Making jeans is not as daunting as you may first think.
Measure, fit, measure and fit again and again until you achieve the fit that you like. And please don't forget to make a test garment especially if you have never made trousers before.
I would love to hear your comments. Have you made jeans? Did you enjoy the process? I did and I won't ever buy a pair of ready made again.